Tracy Arm
The day was much the same as yesterday, but no one was complaining. Bright, sunny skies with no wind, and a perfect day to cruise into Tracy Arm. Most people showed their appreciation of the situation by spending most of their time on deck, enjoying the spectacular scenery as we cruised into the narrow fjord. John Spletts, resident geologist staff member, explained the topography we viewed as being glaciated, with various elements of evidence to show its glacial history. Examples that were pointed out included rounded mountains, numerous cirques (hollowed-out amphitheater-like depressions below horn peaks), and horizontal glacial striations on the walls of the fjord. He explained that a fjord is a drowned, U-shaped, glacial valley. Every turn of the fjord showed more and more spectacular scenery, including waterfalls, and soon a black bear was spotted on the shore, scavenging for food. The bear was very accommodating as the ship came in closer to it and we had great photo opportunities to show it in detail. It appeared to be scratching the rock surface for barnacles, generally looking us over as we looked it over. A second bear appeared on the beach nearby, although seemingly unaware of the first bear.
Soon the bear tired of us or had its fill of barnacles, and ambled into the forest, out of sight. An occasion mountain goat showed up high on cliff faces, spotted only because a white, distant object moved. The only other wildlife visible were the birds, which included pigeon guillemots, terns, gulls, surf scoters, and several bald eagles.
As we progressed into the fjord we began to see small icebergs, which John explained were either growlers (less than one meter above the waterline), and bergy bits (larger than that). The icebergs indicated that glaciers must be at the head of the fjord, where ice calved from the glacier front. Indeed, as lunchtime approached, the glacier came into view.
Following lunch, Steve announced Zodiac tours, with even-numbered cabin occupants going out on a Zodiac tour to get a closer look at South Sawyer Glacier, while Sea Lion cruised to Sawyer Glacier for the remaining guests on board. Additional glacial features, such as a ‘trimline’ on the cliff wall next to the glacier, indicates a thicker glacier that scoured the wall free of weathering crust and vegetation, neither of which had returned to the fresh, unweathered rock. The glacier itself was quite a sight, with several instances of calving ice crashing into the sea, creating surges of water that could be felt as far as the ship. An hour of watching the glacier and waiting for more calving was less than fruitful, proving that a watched glacier never calves!! Close-up views of the glacier also showed numerous birds feeding on whatever was being upwelled near the front, and also seals on ice floes.
After both Zodiac groups had done each tour, the ship returned seaward out of the fjord and headed toward our next day’s activities.
