Alert Bay, British Columbia
The Sea Lion continued her journey heading west-north-west in Johnstone Strait through out the morning. Clear skies and cool temperatures continued to follow us as we made our way towards our afternoon destination of Alert Bay on Cormorant Island. Snow capped mountains decorated Vancouver Island to our port and the mainland of British Columbia showed off a huge range of snow capped mountains on our starboard. The bow of the Sea Lion held the usual suspects all on the watch for marine mammals and migrating birds. Answering our call a group of Pacific white-sided dolphins began an approach through glassy waters heading for our bow. An announcement was made from the bow inviting one and all to join in watching bow riding dolphins.
Later in the morning, naturalist Sharon Grainger invited everyone to the lounge for a presentation on Northwest coast art and culture. Sharon’s photographic images took us through the rich and dramatic landscape of the northwest coast that is dotted with a diverse population of Native peoples. We learned about the connection between landscape, art and tools, all of which provide the perfect materials and backdrop for the foundation of a complex culture and art form.
Just after lunch, we arrived in the small town of Alert Bay. As the Sea Lion approached the waterfront graveyard came into view with many tall and intricately carved totem poles marking the sight of elders and community members who have passed on. Totem poles are primarily visual statements about the ceremonial privileges and identity of those who erected them. The figures represented on totem poles are those beings from mythical times who became, or were encountered by, the ancestors of the group that later took them as family crests. Once the docking of the Sea Lion was complete, we were all invited to disembark and enjoy a long walk around the community and eventually meeting at the U’mista Cultural Center. Opened in 1980, the U’mista Cultural Center houses one of the finest collections of elaborately carved masks, depicting the Potlatch Ceremony of the Kwakwaka’wakw. The collection represents the repatriation of Potlatch regalia taken by the Canadian government on Village Island during a potlatch given by Dan Cranmer. The loss of these valuable objects was never forgotten by the community of Alert Bay and in the 1960’s petitions began from Alert Bay to Ottawa to repatriate these Potlatch objects. The Canadian government stipulated a condition for the return of the Cranmer potlatch objects—the building of a museum to house the collection. Amongst the Kwakwaka’wakw a ransom can be paid for the return of items or captives taken in a raid. In the Kwak’wala language the word for the payment of ransom is U’mista. Hence the U’mista Cultural Center was built and named, and, often affectionately referred to, as the “box of treasures” by many community members.
In the late afternoon we were all invited to Alert Bay’s gukwdzi (Big House) by the T’sasala Cultural Group. We were asked as guests but also as witnesses as is the custom in the Northwest coast Potlatch system, to view traditional dances, songs and story telling. T’sasala means to be determined, and as the first very young members of this dance group presented a welcome dance we understood, the Native tradition that holds children as their greatest resource and elders as the teachers who are passing on the Kwakaka’wakw culture. A shaft of late afternoon light came through the smoke hole at the top of the Big House and lit the dancers as they circled around the central fire. A visual feast met by the sound of voices and a drum log all carrying the culture of this small community forward into the future.
The Sea Lion continued her journey heading west-north-west in Johnstone Strait through out the morning. Clear skies and cool temperatures continued to follow us as we made our way towards our afternoon destination of Alert Bay on Cormorant Island. Snow capped mountains decorated Vancouver Island to our port and the mainland of British Columbia showed off a huge range of snow capped mountains on our starboard. The bow of the Sea Lion held the usual suspects all on the watch for marine mammals and migrating birds. Answering our call a group of Pacific white-sided dolphins began an approach through glassy waters heading for our bow. An announcement was made from the bow inviting one and all to join in watching bow riding dolphins.
Later in the morning, naturalist Sharon Grainger invited everyone to the lounge for a presentation on Northwest coast art and culture. Sharon’s photographic images took us through the rich and dramatic landscape of the northwest coast that is dotted with a diverse population of Native peoples. We learned about the connection between landscape, art and tools, all of which provide the perfect materials and backdrop for the foundation of a complex culture and art form.
Just after lunch, we arrived in the small town of Alert Bay. As the Sea Lion approached the waterfront graveyard came into view with many tall and intricately carved totem poles marking the sight of elders and community members who have passed on. Totem poles are primarily visual statements about the ceremonial privileges and identity of those who erected them. The figures represented on totem poles are those beings from mythical times who became, or were encountered by, the ancestors of the group that later took them as family crests. Once the docking of the Sea Lion was complete, we were all invited to disembark and enjoy a long walk around the community and eventually meeting at the U’mista Cultural Center. Opened in 1980, the U’mista Cultural Center houses one of the finest collections of elaborately carved masks, depicting the Potlatch Ceremony of the Kwakwaka’wakw. The collection represents the repatriation of Potlatch regalia taken by the Canadian government on Village Island during a potlatch given by Dan Cranmer. The loss of these valuable objects was never forgotten by the community of Alert Bay and in the 1960’s petitions began from Alert Bay to Ottawa to repatriate these Potlatch objects. The Canadian government stipulated a condition for the return of the Cranmer potlatch objects—the building of a museum to house the collection. Amongst the Kwakwaka’wakw a ransom can be paid for the return of items or captives taken in a raid. In the Kwak’wala language the word for the payment of ransom is U’mista. Hence the U’mista Cultural Center was built and named, and, often affectionately referred to, as the “box of treasures” by many community members.
In the late afternoon we were all invited to Alert Bay’s gukwdzi (Big House) by the T’sasala Cultural Group. We were asked as guests but also as witnesses as is the custom in the Northwest coast Potlatch system, to view traditional dances, songs and story telling. T’sasala means to be determined, and as the first very young members of this dance group presented a welcome dance we understood, the Native tradition that holds children as their greatest resource and elders as the teachers who are passing on the Kwakaka’wakw culture. A shaft of late afternoon light came through the smoke hole at the top of the Big House and lit the dancers as they circled around the central fire. A visual feast met by the sound of voices and a drum log all carrying the culture of this small community forward into the future.
