Petersburg

What says “Spring” in your neck of the woods? Is it the snow finally melting when you thought it never would? Or perhaps the crocuses, tulips or dogwoods begin to bloom? Maybe for you it’s the arrival of college basketball’s Sweet 16?

For most of us aboard the Sea Lion, the cool temperatures and persistent precipitation in Petersburg did not bring springtime to mind. Everywhere we looked today, moisture was dominant. Rain fell and snow covered the mountains that lean back against the mists with their feet perpetually bathed by the sea. At times, the water-logged soil beneath the trail through the muskeg gave the feeling of walking on marshmallows. Nevertheless, the locals informed us that it was the best weather they’d had in two weeks! Despite climatological indicators, we only needed to take a look around to see that Spring had indeed sprung. Here in Southeast, the bright hued spathe and spadix of the skunk cabbage is one of the first harbingers of the much anticipated end of winter. We encountered this fragrant and showy denizen of the temperate rainforest region as we hiked together on Kupreanof Island or independently on Mitkof Island where the charming town of Petersburg is located.

The Norwegian heritage of this hamlet of about 3000 people was everywhere in evidence; from the Sons of Norway Hall dominating the landscape and the replica of a Viking ship beside it, to the rosemalling on the sidewalks and the names of shops on the main street. The importance of the fishing industry was equally obvious. On Zodiac and walking tours of the docks, we became more familiar with the different types of fishing vessels found in great numbers in the harbor. The bald eagles and Steller sea lions also know this is a fishing town. Some guests counted 50 eagles perched at Eagle’s Roost Park, located, not surprisingly, beside a cannery.

As we sailed north through Wrangell Narrows and out into Frederick Sound, we spotted a black bear foraging near the waters edge. Now if that isn’t Spring in Alaska, I don’t know what is.