South Arm Kelp Bay
Last night a heavy southeasterly storm got the best of the Sea Lion! Our Captain and Expedition leader decided to take shelter in a protected anchorage for the evening. We had entered the south arm of Kelp Bay on the northeast side of Baranof Island during dinner and had remained on the hook for the whole evening. As the light faded, mists curled around the forested hills surrounding our protected anchorage. At sunrise this morning the rain had stopped, the mists had lifted slightly and we found ourselves in the magical world of gray on gray with shades of dark green. The clouds and squalls of rain came and went through out the morning. As the mists lifted we realized Kelp Bay was enclosed by some of the mountain range that makes up a good deal of Baranof Island.
After breakfast two activities were offered: either kayaking and/or a Zodiac cruise. Kayakers were brought to a small beach at the base of two waterfalls. Once launched each small vessel had an opportunity to paddle quietly through the mists exploring the coastline of Kelp Bay. Those of us using Zodiacs for our time on the misty waters adventured farther down bay, finding three humpback whales feeding in peaceful protected waters. The morning slipped by quickly, and as soon as lunch was finished, preparations were made to go ashore at the far end of the bay where tidal meadows, fed by several streams appeared to be covered with patches of color. Many bald eagles were spotted sitting and drying their wings, along with an occasional brown bear feeding on some of the plants growing in the rich and sandy soils of this estuary by the sea. Once on shore, radios began to chatter as each naturalist guiding a walk squealed with delight over the abundance and diversity of flowers. Wild iris, shooting stars, chocolate lilies, wild geranium, star flowers, violets, buttercups and huge colonies of flaming red paintbrush. It had been noticed that the air seemed alive with the sound and flashing sight of Rufus hummingbirds! Finding their way to the launching bracts provided by the flowers of the paintbrush these tiny hummingbirds were having a feast on the nectar of so many bright red flowers and providing a vehicle for the pollination of following generations of Castilleja miniata, or common red paintbrush. The clouds had lifted, and our entire afternoon had been dry. The morning’s rain left its diamonds on all the flowers and each group of hikers had an opportunity to stop and look, photograph and marvel at the diversity of blooms all dressed in their bright colors, dotted with diamonds of rain, intensified by the low light of the day.
All too soon we returned to the Sea Lion and once everything had been stowed, we heard the engines and anchor chain signaling a move out of the protection of Kelp Bay and back into Chatham Strait.
Clothes hung all around the ship as we all attempted to dry rain gear, trousers, hats and gloves from our day of typical Alaskan sunshine! Relaxing, viewing our images from the day, enjoying recap and adjourning to the dining room for a nice warm meal appealed to everyone. During our dinner we heard the microphone click, and were aware that something must have been spotted from the bridge, as the Sea Lion began a sharp turn. Then the announcement was made: “an enormous group of killer whales has been spotted….” Many of us left the dining room and got to the bow as quickly as possible. All around us were small groups of killer whales. More than twenty animals could be seen, including young animals, several large males and many young males and females! Some of the young were leaping out of the water, charging was seen, a glimpse of Pink Floyd was spotted and obvious social Killer whale frolicking was right in front of the Sea Lion. Possibly a supper pod with mating behavior? Possibly an enormous feeding group due the arrival of large groups of salmon? Possibly there was an intense social gathering for both, mating and feeding! Many ideas were discussed on the bow, as the Sea Lion was expertly maneuvered about eight miles past Morris Reef in Chatham Strait, giving us all tremendous inside looks into the lives of resident Killer whales. The white nights of the Alaskan summer were dimming and slowly the Sea Lion needed to make her way towards our next days destination of Glacier Bay and just as that announcement was made a large part of the Killer whale gathering decided to come toward the stern of the Sea Lion and have a look at all the enthusiastic humans shifting the weight of our ship to the port-stern! Passing so close we could hear their squeaks and whistles, and we cheered with joy, marking our good fortune at the end of yet another remarkable day of exploring the waters of Southeast Alaska.
Last night a heavy southeasterly storm got the best of the Sea Lion! Our Captain and Expedition leader decided to take shelter in a protected anchorage for the evening. We had entered the south arm of Kelp Bay on the northeast side of Baranof Island during dinner and had remained on the hook for the whole evening. As the light faded, mists curled around the forested hills surrounding our protected anchorage. At sunrise this morning the rain had stopped, the mists had lifted slightly and we found ourselves in the magical world of gray on gray with shades of dark green. The clouds and squalls of rain came and went through out the morning. As the mists lifted we realized Kelp Bay was enclosed by some of the mountain range that makes up a good deal of Baranof Island.
After breakfast two activities were offered: either kayaking and/or a Zodiac cruise. Kayakers were brought to a small beach at the base of two waterfalls. Once launched each small vessel had an opportunity to paddle quietly through the mists exploring the coastline of Kelp Bay. Those of us using Zodiacs for our time on the misty waters adventured farther down bay, finding three humpback whales feeding in peaceful protected waters. The morning slipped by quickly, and as soon as lunch was finished, preparations were made to go ashore at the far end of the bay where tidal meadows, fed by several streams appeared to be covered with patches of color. Many bald eagles were spotted sitting and drying their wings, along with an occasional brown bear feeding on some of the plants growing in the rich and sandy soils of this estuary by the sea. Once on shore, radios began to chatter as each naturalist guiding a walk squealed with delight over the abundance and diversity of flowers. Wild iris, shooting stars, chocolate lilies, wild geranium, star flowers, violets, buttercups and huge colonies of flaming red paintbrush. It had been noticed that the air seemed alive with the sound and flashing sight of Rufus hummingbirds! Finding their way to the launching bracts provided by the flowers of the paintbrush these tiny hummingbirds were having a feast on the nectar of so many bright red flowers and providing a vehicle for the pollination of following generations of Castilleja miniata, or common red paintbrush. The clouds had lifted, and our entire afternoon had been dry. The morning’s rain left its diamonds on all the flowers and each group of hikers had an opportunity to stop and look, photograph and marvel at the diversity of blooms all dressed in their bright colors, dotted with diamonds of rain, intensified by the low light of the day.
All too soon we returned to the Sea Lion and once everything had been stowed, we heard the engines and anchor chain signaling a move out of the protection of Kelp Bay and back into Chatham Strait.
Clothes hung all around the ship as we all attempted to dry rain gear, trousers, hats and gloves from our day of typical Alaskan sunshine! Relaxing, viewing our images from the day, enjoying recap and adjourning to the dining room for a nice warm meal appealed to everyone. During our dinner we heard the microphone click, and were aware that something must have been spotted from the bridge, as the Sea Lion began a sharp turn. Then the announcement was made: “an enormous group of killer whales has been spotted….” Many of us left the dining room and got to the bow as quickly as possible. All around us were small groups of killer whales. More than twenty animals could be seen, including young animals, several large males and many young males and females! Some of the young were leaping out of the water, charging was seen, a glimpse of Pink Floyd was spotted and obvious social Killer whale frolicking was right in front of the Sea Lion. Possibly a supper pod with mating behavior? Possibly an enormous feeding group due the arrival of large groups of salmon? Possibly there was an intense social gathering for both, mating and feeding! Many ideas were discussed on the bow, as the Sea Lion was expertly maneuvered about eight miles past Morris Reef in Chatham Strait, giving us all tremendous inside looks into the lives of resident Killer whales. The white nights of the Alaskan summer were dimming and slowly the Sea Lion needed to make her way towards our next days destination of Glacier Bay and just as that announcement was made a large part of the Killer whale gathering decided to come toward the stern of the Sea Lion and have a look at all the enthusiastic humans shifting the weight of our ship to the port-stern! Passing so close we could hear their squeaks and whistles, and we cheered with joy, marking our good fortune at the end of yet another remarkable day of exploring the waters of Southeast Alaska.
