Los Islotes
After sheltering for the night in Ensenada Grande, we weighed anchor and headed to Los Islotes with baited breath: would the swells preclude our views of the sea lions? Approaching the island, we could hear the barking of the sea lions greeting our ship. This island, so distant from the peninsula, provides a haven from predators and is the southernmost rookery in the world for the California sea lion. Although the peak of their mating season is not until May/June, at least 50 sea lions were stretched out in the sun and more frolicked in the ocean. A few porpoised towards us, and we had good views of sleek bodies as they sailed through the air. Giant bulls with their regal sagittal crests perched atop rocks while the females and pups played on lower perches. Despite the waves impressively crashing through the keyhole, the water along most of the island was relatively calm. Climbing into the Zodiacs in significant swells was an adventure, but the close views were an intense adrenaline rush.
We wondered whether high tide enabled access to some of the sea lion siesta spots, but we watched as they voluntarily tumbled into the water and wiggled up to regain their perches. We marveled that, despite their ungainly gait, the sea lions managed to clamber to ledges higher than we could scale. A small pup searching for his mommy yelped and was answered by a deep bark that reverberated off the sides of the small cave in which the mother reclined. We passed one female sea lion twice before noticing a small tail protruding from her much larger one. Zooming in for a closer look, we could see a very tiny pup, probably less than a year old, hiding behind her. As we watched, the pup poked his head out, the mother rolled over for better access and the pup began to suckle. The sounds of the Zodiac motors drew gangs of the more curious pups into the water. They dove around us, allowing a mutual investigation: we checked them out as they checked us out! Through the clear water we watched them dive again and again, tumbling over each other and spiraling underwater as they moved from one side of the boat and popped up on the other. The older animals were less inclined to swim right out to us. Instead they preferred to view us through one lifted eyelid while snoozing in the sun.
In addition to the sea lions, this island is a haven for many birds. This is immediately evident. The rocks are coated with many layers of guano, the seabirds' attempt to paint the island white. Great blue herons perched on nests high on the cliff face while turkey vultures soared above. A black turnstone pried its bills among the barnacles in the drier areas of the intertidal and endemic yellow-footed gulls (found nowhere else but Baja) wheeled in the air. Blue-footed boobies performed their ritualistic mating dance, carefully displaying their brilliantly covered feet, wiggling their tail feathers and pointing their beaks skyward. The female was not impressed. She soon left the male in the small rock concavity and wandered along the ledge, apparently searching for a more notable mate.
After cruising past these magnificent cliffs for over an hour, we returned to the ship and steamed ahead to Magic Beach for sunning, beach exploring and soothing kayaking. Brown pelicans plunged around us as we maneuvered our kayaks through the shallows. Great blue herons posed along the shore next to statuesque great egrets. Snowy egrets flew past. Sitting in our miniature craft, peering up at the great cliffs that lined the arroyo and listening to the calls of gulls and willets, peace settled in our hearts. This has truly been a special trip. During the captain's special cocktail hour we had a final recap session with a special poem reading from one of the guests. Our last dinner aboard was spectacular as usual and the hubbub of animated conversation was deafening. We may leave the ship, but we shall not forget the good friends we made aboard, nor the magical experiences we shared. We retired to our rooms to pack our belongings but the adventure was not yet over. Not ready to let a good thing end until the absolute last minute, we headed back to Magic Beach for a beach campfire and a few last evening hours spent with our fellow adventurers.
After sheltering for the night in Ensenada Grande, we weighed anchor and headed to Los Islotes with baited breath: would the swells preclude our views of the sea lions? Approaching the island, we could hear the barking of the sea lions greeting our ship. This island, so distant from the peninsula, provides a haven from predators and is the southernmost rookery in the world for the California sea lion. Although the peak of their mating season is not until May/June, at least 50 sea lions were stretched out in the sun and more frolicked in the ocean. A few porpoised towards us, and we had good views of sleek bodies as they sailed through the air. Giant bulls with their regal sagittal crests perched atop rocks while the females and pups played on lower perches. Despite the waves impressively crashing through the keyhole, the water along most of the island was relatively calm. Climbing into the Zodiacs in significant swells was an adventure, but the close views were an intense adrenaline rush.
We wondered whether high tide enabled access to some of the sea lion siesta spots, but we watched as they voluntarily tumbled into the water and wiggled up to regain their perches. We marveled that, despite their ungainly gait, the sea lions managed to clamber to ledges higher than we could scale. A small pup searching for his mommy yelped and was answered by a deep bark that reverberated off the sides of the small cave in which the mother reclined. We passed one female sea lion twice before noticing a small tail protruding from her much larger one. Zooming in for a closer look, we could see a very tiny pup, probably less than a year old, hiding behind her. As we watched, the pup poked his head out, the mother rolled over for better access and the pup began to suckle. The sounds of the Zodiac motors drew gangs of the more curious pups into the water. They dove around us, allowing a mutual investigation: we checked them out as they checked us out! Through the clear water we watched them dive again and again, tumbling over each other and spiraling underwater as they moved from one side of the boat and popped up on the other. The older animals were less inclined to swim right out to us. Instead they preferred to view us through one lifted eyelid while snoozing in the sun.
In addition to the sea lions, this island is a haven for many birds. This is immediately evident. The rocks are coated with many layers of guano, the seabirds' attempt to paint the island white. Great blue herons perched on nests high on the cliff face while turkey vultures soared above. A black turnstone pried its bills among the barnacles in the drier areas of the intertidal and endemic yellow-footed gulls (found nowhere else but Baja) wheeled in the air. Blue-footed boobies performed their ritualistic mating dance, carefully displaying their brilliantly covered feet, wiggling their tail feathers and pointing their beaks skyward. The female was not impressed. She soon left the male in the small rock concavity and wandered along the ledge, apparently searching for a more notable mate.
After cruising past these magnificent cliffs for over an hour, we returned to the ship and steamed ahead to Magic Beach for sunning, beach exploring and soothing kayaking. Brown pelicans plunged around us as we maneuvered our kayaks through the shallows. Great blue herons posed along the shore next to statuesque great egrets. Snowy egrets flew past. Sitting in our miniature craft, peering up at the great cliffs that lined the arroyo and listening to the calls of gulls and willets, peace settled in our hearts. This has truly been a special trip. During the captain's special cocktail hour we had a final recap session with a special poem reading from one of the guests. Our last dinner aboard was spectacular as usual and the hubbub of animated conversation was deafening. We may leave the ship, but we shall not forget the good friends we made aboard, nor the magical experiences we shared. We retired to our rooms to pack our belongings but the adventure was not yet over. Not ready to let a good thing end until the absolute last minute, we headed back to Magic Beach for a beach campfire and a few last evening hours spent with our fellow adventurers.
