Boca de Soledad, Magdalena Bay
How does one determine the origin and authenticity of artifacts found in a remote desert environment? The spear point pictured here (about one foot long) was reputedly recovered near the village of Puerto Lopez Mateos in Magdalena Bay. It may have been used by early peoples who visited this area in search of large marine animals.
Three groups of native peoples inhabited the Baja California Peninsula when Europeans arrived in the area. The Pericues lived in the Cape area, the Guaycuras to the north of them, and the Cochimies in the Central Desert region. Although these people do not survive today, there is still evidence and written accounts of their occupation. It was the Guaycuras who were seasonal visitors to the sandy island of Magdalena Bay, but there is little, if any, evidence that they tried to capture whales. Most of their artifacts seem to indicate that they lived primarily on shellfish. In our hikes on this long barrier island we found extensive middens that contain the shells of the large sea snail (Murex,) scallops, and various clams. Historical documentation indicates that they also gathered the eggs of pelicans and other sea birds, and may not have used fire. Their foods were eaten raw. Therefore, the spear point, which was shown to us today and was found by a local fisherman, remains a mystery.
It wasn't until commercial whaling by non-natives started in the mid-1800s that there was an impact on the population of gray whales now using Magdalena Bay. With increased awareness and protective measures, their numbers have now recovered and we were surrounded by this magnificent cetacean most of the day. Our Zodiacs were no threat to the females and their calves. For more that three hours this morning a mother and her calf played with us, remaining in close contact with our boats, nudging us repeatedly, and lifting their strangely shaped mouth and rostrum up to the soft rubber sides of the Zodiacs. Were they seeking company, simply rubbing on a soft surface or people watching? Whatever it was, we were more than content to oblige them. It is an indescribable thrill to be approached by a huge mammal of the sea and to realize that we were not viewed as a threat but as an object of desire. It is an extraordinary experience to interact with any wild animal in its natural environment. It is not likely that we will forget it for the remainder of our lives. It is truly something special to feel that we were accepted into the whales' environment. Looking deep into the paired nostrils as well as the barnacles and crustaceans that reside on the skin of a mother gray whale, and into the eye of her baby brings the reality that there are and always will be profound interconnections between the living creatures of this planet.
The excitement of the morning continued as we exchanged stories during our deck barbecue lunch. We eagerly sought more interactions with our mammal friends in the afternoon.
It was amazing to observe the differences in behavior and locality of the whales with the change in time and tide. The experience was no less remarkable, however.
While not whale-watching, we had the option to walk on shore with a naturalist and explore dunes, the shoreline, and mangroves. Just as the last of the day's beachwalkers were about to board the Zodiac to return to the ship, the yips and howls of a group of local coyotes serenaded them. It was a magical and mystical conclusion to the afternoon.
As a special treat, the Fisherman's Fiesta dinner was held on board this evening. The chefs from the Ballena Gris (Gray Whale) Restaurant in Lopez Mateos took over our ship's galley to prepare this feast for us. A vocal guitar-playing trio added to the jovial atmosphere in the lounge. Today was certainly one of the highlights of the many great days that we have enjoyed on the Sea Lion in this magical desert by the sea. We will seek more excitement and insight into life tomorrow.
How does one determine the origin and authenticity of artifacts found in a remote desert environment? The spear point pictured here (about one foot long) was reputedly recovered near the village of Puerto Lopez Mateos in Magdalena Bay. It may have been used by early peoples who visited this area in search of large marine animals.
Three groups of native peoples inhabited the Baja California Peninsula when Europeans arrived in the area. The Pericues lived in the Cape area, the Guaycuras to the north of them, and the Cochimies in the Central Desert region. Although these people do not survive today, there is still evidence and written accounts of their occupation. It was the Guaycuras who were seasonal visitors to the sandy island of Magdalena Bay, but there is little, if any, evidence that they tried to capture whales. Most of their artifacts seem to indicate that they lived primarily on shellfish. In our hikes on this long barrier island we found extensive middens that contain the shells of the large sea snail (Murex,) scallops, and various clams. Historical documentation indicates that they also gathered the eggs of pelicans and other sea birds, and may not have used fire. Their foods were eaten raw. Therefore, the spear point, which was shown to us today and was found by a local fisherman, remains a mystery.
It wasn't until commercial whaling by non-natives started in the mid-1800s that there was an impact on the population of gray whales now using Magdalena Bay. With increased awareness and protective measures, their numbers have now recovered and we were surrounded by this magnificent cetacean most of the day. Our Zodiacs were no threat to the females and their calves. For more that three hours this morning a mother and her calf played with us, remaining in close contact with our boats, nudging us repeatedly, and lifting their strangely shaped mouth and rostrum up to the soft rubber sides of the Zodiacs. Were they seeking company, simply rubbing on a soft surface or people watching? Whatever it was, we were more than content to oblige them. It is an indescribable thrill to be approached by a huge mammal of the sea and to realize that we were not viewed as a threat but as an object of desire. It is an extraordinary experience to interact with any wild animal in its natural environment. It is not likely that we will forget it for the remainder of our lives. It is truly something special to feel that we were accepted into the whales' environment. Looking deep into the paired nostrils as well as the barnacles and crustaceans that reside on the skin of a mother gray whale, and into the eye of her baby brings the reality that there are and always will be profound interconnections between the living creatures of this planet.
The excitement of the morning continued as we exchanged stories during our deck barbecue lunch. We eagerly sought more interactions with our mammal friends in the afternoon.
It was amazing to observe the differences in behavior and locality of the whales with the change in time and tide. The experience was no less remarkable, however.
While not whale-watching, we had the option to walk on shore with a naturalist and explore dunes, the shoreline, and mangroves. Just as the last of the day's beachwalkers were about to board the Zodiac to return to the ship, the yips and howls of a group of local coyotes serenaded them. It was a magical and mystical conclusion to the afternoon.
As a special treat, the Fisherman's Fiesta dinner was held on board this evening. The chefs from the Ballena Gris (Gray Whale) Restaurant in Lopez Mateos took over our ship's galley to prepare this feast for us. A vocal guitar-playing trio added to the jovial atmosphere in the lounge. Today was certainly one of the highlights of the many great days that we have enjoyed on the Sea Lion in this magical desert by the sea. We will seek more excitement and insight into life tomorrow.
