Isla San Pedro Martir
The puffy spouts of sperm whales stood out from miles away against the deep blue of the ocean in the dawn light. Unlike most whales, an asymmetrical blowhole causes spray to shoot forward and to the left of center, producing a very distinctive spout. Bulbous heads protruded like giant black olives followed by bodies covered with wrinkled, prune-like skin. Small calves rose repeatedly but raised their blowholes high above the water, for they were not yet experienced enough to rise with the efficiency of their mothers. Bottlenose dolphins leapt among the whales, and hundreds of phalaropes and storm petrels caught one's eye in between whale breaths. For a few hours, we immersed ourselves into the surfacings of the whales. Beneath the water, their behavior was a mystery. Research has shown that these creatures can dive to depths of 10,450 feet and remain below for as long as 1-1/2 hours. Fortunately, the individuals we observed remained more visible.
How different our encounter was from those of whalers seeking the valuable spermaceti from the immense forehead, called a "case". The blubber and meat were also used; sperm whale teeth became surfaces for scrimshaw carvings when sailors had free time. Some sperm whales contain ambergris, a material from the digestive tract prized as an ingredient for perfume manufacture. It was wonderful to enjoy these fascinating animals as other residents with whom we share our planet rather than as objects for exploitation.
While we ate our lunch on the Bridge Deck, the ship cruised north towards our afternoon destination, Isla San Pedro Martir. This ragged island is a biological jewel isolated from the rest of the world by deep productive waters that nourish sea lions and fill the gullets of begging bird babies. Snorkelers entered a world of dense seaweeds and colorful invertebrates. Showy, frilled nudibranchs, or sea slugs, crawled conspicuously among the sea stars and urchins that clung to the rocks. We explored the island by Zodiac, to view pelicans, boobies, and cormorants. Pairs of tropicbirds flew in tandem in choreographed courtship dances with wings set and streamer tails trailing behind.
San Pedro Martir is also home to California sea lions, and their barking and antics added to the cacophony and commotion that enveloped our little boats. A number of youngsters approached the Zodiacs with playful curiosity. They porpoised like dolphins beside us, then peered up at smiling faces and clicking cameras.
Just before sunset the boats unloaded for the last time. Festivities of the Captain's cocktail hour and dinner soon followed, and lively chatter of shared experiences filled the room. Our stories and photos may thrill friends and loved ones at home, but the full memories of this voyage will never be fully understood by any but those who were actually here together in this amazing part of the world.
The puffy spouts of sperm whales stood out from miles away against the deep blue of the ocean in the dawn light. Unlike most whales, an asymmetrical blowhole causes spray to shoot forward and to the left of center, producing a very distinctive spout. Bulbous heads protruded like giant black olives followed by bodies covered with wrinkled, prune-like skin. Small calves rose repeatedly but raised their blowholes high above the water, for they were not yet experienced enough to rise with the efficiency of their mothers. Bottlenose dolphins leapt among the whales, and hundreds of phalaropes and storm petrels caught one's eye in between whale breaths. For a few hours, we immersed ourselves into the surfacings of the whales. Beneath the water, their behavior was a mystery. Research has shown that these creatures can dive to depths of 10,450 feet and remain below for as long as 1-1/2 hours. Fortunately, the individuals we observed remained more visible.
How different our encounter was from those of whalers seeking the valuable spermaceti from the immense forehead, called a "case". The blubber and meat were also used; sperm whale teeth became surfaces for scrimshaw carvings when sailors had free time. Some sperm whales contain ambergris, a material from the digestive tract prized as an ingredient for perfume manufacture. It was wonderful to enjoy these fascinating animals as other residents with whom we share our planet rather than as objects for exploitation.
While we ate our lunch on the Bridge Deck, the ship cruised north towards our afternoon destination, Isla San Pedro Martir. This ragged island is a biological jewel isolated from the rest of the world by deep productive waters that nourish sea lions and fill the gullets of begging bird babies. Snorkelers entered a world of dense seaweeds and colorful invertebrates. Showy, frilled nudibranchs, or sea slugs, crawled conspicuously among the sea stars and urchins that clung to the rocks. We explored the island by Zodiac, to view pelicans, boobies, and cormorants. Pairs of tropicbirds flew in tandem in choreographed courtship dances with wings set and streamer tails trailing behind.
San Pedro Martir is also home to California sea lions, and their barking and antics added to the cacophony and commotion that enveloped our little boats. A number of youngsters approached the Zodiacs with playful curiosity. They porpoised like dolphins beside us, then peered up at smiling faces and clicking cameras.
Just before sunset the boats unloaded for the last time. Festivities of the Captain's cocktail hour and dinner soon followed, and lively chatter of shared experiences filled the room. Our stories and photos may thrill friends and loved ones at home, but the full memories of this voyage will never be fully understood by any but those who were actually here together in this amazing part of the world.
