The 6 o'clock wake-up call reminded us that today there would be a before-breakfast outing to see boojums. But what are boojums? They are among the most bizarre of all plants, called cirios by the locals to describe their tapered-candle shape. It has been said that they resemble upside-down turnips or white carrots that tower to 80 feet or more, although usually they are considerably smaller. Most boojums grow in central Baja California, but a small population exists near La Libertad on the Mexican mainland, where we scrambled ashore before sunrise. It was fun to explore the intertidal area, then wander through the desert on our search. Our mission was a success. Returning hikers boarded Zodiacs at our landing site and were met just offshore by the Purser and Hotel Manager, who waded to meet us laden with glasses of Mimosas and champagne. What a surprise!
While the ship motored west we spotted distant splashing from plunge-diving seabirds and leaping dolphins, a perfect excuse to deviate from the planned course. Before long we were in the midst of a fantastic feeding frenzy. Common dolphins and sea lions porpoised together, and birds plummeted from above to grab small fish from just beneath the surface. Pomarine jaegers joined gulls, storm-petrels, pelicans, and a pink-footed shearwater in this flurry of activity.
During the afternoon we explored a new site on Isla Angel de la Guarda, the second largest island in the Sea of Cortez. The diversity of life in this remote spot was remarkable. Zodiac cruisers watched dolphins that leaped near the ship. Hikers avoided the yellow-footed gulls nesting along the beach and instead investigated the multitudes of fiddler crabs and other invertebrates as well as miscellaneous bones and desert plants. Nesting ravens and ospreys perched on red volcanic cliffs above the kayaks, which were undoubtedly an unusual sight for the creatures that reside in this wild and fascinating place. The ship remained at anchor on the perfectly calm sea as night settled in. The beautifully dark sky, unspoiled by city lights and pollution, was spangled with a blanket of sparkling stars as drowsiness finally caught up with us and we headed for bed.
