Reflecting on Common Dolphins
We awoke this morning again cruising the waters near Isla del Carmen. Conditions were beautiful with seas wonderfully calm. Our first visitors were bottlenose dolphins. It was great fun to peer down from the bow at the perpetual smiles of these engaging animals. During breakfast, more visitors arrived. We hurried from eggs and bacon up to the bow to see hundreds of common dolphins. Commons are daintier than their bottlenosed cousins and often travel in much larger numbers. Now don’t tell them I said so, but bottlenose dolphins are really rather drab creatures. Commons, by contrast, are boldly patterned. Their slate, buff and cream markings wind in sinuous curves. Beautiful under any circumstances, the dolphins were spectacular today. The water, though forming a rich jade background, was so clear that at times the dolphins seemed to be floating in air. Following the shifting motions of a particular dolphin, it often came as a shock when the animal actually drew breath, and, with a splash, the water’s invisible surface was manifest. With time, scores of dolphins joined us, dashing in, jockeying for the “sweet spot,” where bow riding is easiest, then speeding away into the depths. We spent a long time with the herd, and we were able to see interesting behavior, such as leaps to knock off pesky remoras, communicative tail slaps, and even tummy-to-tummy mating!
Common dolphins’ boisterous behavior imparts a certain feeling, viewing great whales, quite another. We found fin whales near Carmen’s east end. Though called “the greyhounds of the sea”, fin whales move with the graceful inexorability of the world’s largest creatures. It was deeply impressive to see the whale’s broad rostrum, mighty back, and tall arcuate fin. Having heard so often about the rarity of whales, it was charming to find a young whale swimming with its mother, a hopeful sign of the Gulf’s healthy whale populations.
After lunch, we anchored at Isla Danzante. Some braved the bright sun, wandered through a cactus maze, and reached a nearby ridge for a gorgeous view, but most opted for a cool swim instead. Snorkelers saw fish with striking marks and colors – speckles and stripes, spots and bars, rich golds, lively yellows, vivid blues. Seastars and other invertebrates were equally colorful.
Later in the afternoon, we docked in Puerto Escondido, on the peninsular mainland. Boarding vans, we rode north to Loreto. Here we visited California’s oldest mission church and strolled the shaded streets of the town’s historic district. And while history is interesting, perhaps everyone’s favorite site was somewhat more contemporary – the ice cream shop!
Back on the ship, we took an evening cruise, enjoying drinks and a cool breeze from the sun deck. The water was so smooth that mobula rays, skimming the ocean’s surface, made dramatic splashes and swirls. Gradually the sea and sky darkened to ashy lavender, and, during dinner, we saw the orange full moon rise.
We awoke this morning again cruising the waters near Isla del Carmen. Conditions were beautiful with seas wonderfully calm. Our first visitors were bottlenose dolphins. It was great fun to peer down from the bow at the perpetual smiles of these engaging animals. During breakfast, more visitors arrived. We hurried from eggs and bacon up to the bow to see hundreds of common dolphins. Commons are daintier than their bottlenosed cousins and often travel in much larger numbers. Now don’t tell them I said so, but bottlenose dolphins are really rather drab creatures. Commons, by contrast, are boldly patterned. Their slate, buff and cream markings wind in sinuous curves. Beautiful under any circumstances, the dolphins were spectacular today. The water, though forming a rich jade background, was so clear that at times the dolphins seemed to be floating in air. Following the shifting motions of a particular dolphin, it often came as a shock when the animal actually drew breath, and, with a splash, the water’s invisible surface was manifest. With time, scores of dolphins joined us, dashing in, jockeying for the “sweet spot,” where bow riding is easiest, then speeding away into the depths. We spent a long time with the herd, and we were able to see interesting behavior, such as leaps to knock off pesky remoras, communicative tail slaps, and even tummy-to-tummy mating!
Common dolphins’ boisterous behavior imparts a certain feeling, viewing great whales, quite another. We found fin whales near Carmen’s east end. Though called “the greyhounds of the sea”, fin whales move with the graceful inexorability of the world’s largest creatures. It was deeply impressive to see the whale’s broad rostrum, mighty back, and tall arcuate fin. Having heard so often about the rarity of whales, it was charming to find a young whale swimming with its mother, a hopeful sign of the Gulf’s healthy whale populations.
After lunch, we anchored at Isla Danzante. Some braved the bright sun, wandered through a cactus maze, and reached a nearby ridge for a gorgeous view, but most opted for a cool swim instead. Snorkelers saw fish with striking marks and colors – speckles and stripes, spots and bars, rich golds, lively yellows, vivid blues. Seastars and other invertebrates were equally colorful.
Later in the afternoon, we docked in Puerto Escondido, on the peninsular mainland. Boarding vans, we rode north to Loreto. Here we visited California’s oldest mission church and strolled the shaded streets of the town’s historic district. And while history is interesting, perhaps everyone’s favorite site was somewhat more contemporary – the ice cream shop!
Back on the ship, we took an evening cruise, enjoying drinks and a cool breeze from the sun deck. The water was so smooth that mobula rays, skimming the ocean’s surface, made dramatic splashes and swirls. Gradually the sea and sky darkened to ashy lavender, and, during dinner, we saw the orange full moon rise.
