Punta Dispensa & Miracle Beach, Isla Espiritu Santo
Deep into what began as a peaceful evening, the winter winds of Baja began circling the Sea Lion. Out of the northeast, the El Norte started its passage, howling down the 1500-kilometer length of the Gulf of California. By early morning, the officers on the bridge were recording winds in excess of 30 knots. Just before 7:00am our expedition leader Michelle Graves began her announcements with a description of plan “B” for our daily activities. Captain Carden had turned the Sea Lion around just before 6:00am and headed south, moving with the motion of the seas. We were headed for protected waters off of the southern tip of Isla Espiritu Santo, and a beach called Punta Dispensa. In the lee of this large island we were able to anchor the Sea Lion and begin our morning’s activities. Long hikers were landed by Zodiac and took off heading for the highest peak on the southern end of the island and a magnificent view. Medium hikers began their exploration of the plant world by heading deep into a large stand of blooming agave, morning glory vines and found, nestled in a small limber bush, a gorgeous passionflower vine showing off an exquisite flower. The beach walkers headed down a long expanse of white sand in search of flotsam and jetsam, hoping for shells, animals and their tracks, all telling a story of survival in this desert and sea landscape.
Just before lunch we returned to the Sea Lion with all guests and beach gear. Slowly the Captain pointed the bow out into the wind and began a slow cruise into waves and wind making his way to another sheltered beach slightly north of Punta Dispensa. Our afternoon and evening anchorage was at Miracle beach. We were in the lee of two small islands and facing a protected beach with two large lagoons on either side. Snorkeling and Zodiacs were offered for the afternoon.
While some of us headed under the sea and winds a large group of us enjoyed the opportunity to explore the surrounding lagoons and nearby islands by Zodiac. Once safely seated in our extremely maneuverable crafts, naturalists and guests began their tours. In both lagoons birds were busy diving for their afternoon meal. We passed by large groups of Brown pelicans in full breeding plumage, blue-footed boobies, Heermann’s gulls, Reddish egrets, Snowy egrets, a few Royal terns and Cormorants all taking advantage of schools of fish much more visible in an extreme low tide. As the afternoon moved towards early evening the sky filled with Magnificent frigate birds. The sun was setting through wisps of clouds over the Baja peninsula. As the light turned towards gold, the frigates dropped down through the winds heading for their evening roost on Isla Gallo. A Frigate birds wingspan of nearly six feet, along with a forked tail and extremely talented flying technique made for wonderful bird watching! Sitting in the lee of this small island, we watched, photographed and enjoyed a moment of peaceful quiet before returning to the windy bay that led back to the fantail of the Sea Lion. It had been a day of exploring one of several islands that run along the eastern side of the Baja peninsula. Both the land and sea had offered up some of their natural history treasures in this unique ecosystem called a desert by the sea.
Deep into what began as a peaceful evening, the winter winds of Baja began circling the Sea Lion. Out of the northeast, the El Norte started its passage, howling down the 1500-kilometer length of the Gulf of California. By early morning, the officers on the bridge were recording winds in excess of 30 knots. Just before 7:00am our expedition leader Michelle Graves began her announcements with a description of plan “B” for our daily activities. Captain Carden had turned the Sea Lion around just before 6:00am and headed south, moving with the motion of the seas. We were headed for protected waters off of the southern tip of Isla Espiritu Santo, and a beach called Punta Dispensa. In the lee of this large island we were able to anchor the Sea Lion and begin our morning’s activities. Long hikers were landed by Zodiac and took off heading for the highest peak on the southern end of the island and a magnificent view. Medium hikers began their exploration of the plant world by heading deep into a large stand of blooming agave, morning glory vines and found, nestled in a small limber bush, a gorgeous passionflower vine showing off an exquisite flower. The beach walkers headed down a long expanse of white sand in search of flotsam and jetsam, hoping for shells, animals and their tracks, all telling a story of survival in this desert and sea landscape.
Just before lunch we returned to the Sea Lion with all guests and beach gear. Slowly the Captain pointed the bow out into the wind and began a slow cruise into waves and wind making his way to another sheltered beach slightly north of Punta Dispensa. Our afternoon and evening anchorage was at Miracle beach. We were in the lee of two small islands and facing a protected beach with two large lagoons on either side. Snorkeling and Zodiacs were offered for the afternoon.
While some of us headed under the sea and winds a large group of us enjoyed the opportunity to explore the surrounding lagoons and nearby islands by Zodiac. Once safely seated in our extremely maneuverable crafts, naturalists and guests began their tours. In both lagoons birds were busy diving for their afternoon meal. We passed by large groups of Brown pelicans in full breeding plumage, blue-footed boobies, Heermann’s gulls, Reddish egrets, Snowy egrets, a few Royal terns and Cormorants all taking advantage of schools of fish much more visible in an extreme low tide. As the afternoon moved towards early evening the sky filled with Magnificent frigate birds. The sun was setting through wisps of clouds over the Baja peninsula. As the light turned towards gold, the frigates dropped down through the winds heading for their evening roost on Isla Gallo. A Frigate birds wingspan of nearly six feet, along with a forked tail and extremely talented flying technique made for wonderful bird watching! Sitting in the lee of this small island, we watched, photographed and enjoyed a moment of peaceful quiet before returning to the windy bay that led back to the fantail of the Sea Lion. It had been a day of exploring one of several islands that run along the eastern side of the Baja peninsula. Both the land and sea had offered up some of their natural history treasures in this unique ecosystem called a desert by the sea.
