Sand Dollar beach, Isla Magdalena; Transit of Hull Canal

As soon as embarkation was complete, the Sea Lion transited a short distance to our evening’s anchorage. The wind died during the night and made for a quiet evening on the hook. We had a leisurely wake up and under bright, blue skies and light airs our first day in Bahia Magdalena started with a hike ashore. With naturalists leading the way several groups headed across the dunes of the southern end of Isla Magdalena to the western shore and a long five-mile beach enclosed within Bahia Santa Maria. Tracks of coyotes, rabbits, lizards and the infamous white-footed mouse were found in the surrounding hummocks of plants and scampering across the sand dunes. December, January and February had provided more than ample rain and the anxious seed communities of the sand dunes were holding forth in a small but spectacular display of color. Sea purslane, sand verbena, rattle weed, milkweed, ground-cherry and box-thorn all were in flower, providing a little dash of color and a viable food source for many of the land mammals trying to make a living here in the sand dunes of Isla Magdalena. The wind had died completely, and with the lack of moving sands we were able to recreate the story of many animals’ lives over the past ten hours. Following the contour of the dunes, large and small animals made a living in this very arid ecosystem. Where communities of plants had formed a small carpet, capturing the sand sometimes only temporarily, animal highways were found. At places where shrubs of box-thorn had developed the small entry way of a White-footed mouse house could be seen with the smallest tracks of four feet poised; as if the mouse had paused, gazed out over his or her nocturnal domain and then took shelter as the night turned to a warm and sunny day.

As we crested the top of the second set of sand dunes, the sound of the Pacific Ocean could be heard. Breakers crested just off shore, beckoning to all who might be interested in a little water sports. We had time for playing in the surf, swimming, a long run, or just a thoughtful and observant walk along the shore, enjoying the warmth of this clear, sunny and calm day. The beach was littered with sand dollars, bones, and a variety of shells all begging for a moment of attention. Though, what captured most of our observations and thoughts was this long deserted and preserved beach, offering up its presence, for our graceful entry into one of the many unique ecosystems that makes up the Baja peninsula. All too soon it was time to return across the sand dunes to Bahia Magdalena and the waiting Sea Lion.

Once all guests and Zodiacs were back on board, the anchor was brought up, and we began our afternoon heading for the Hull Canal. Alejandro Camacho our local pilot was on board and ready to safely guide the Sea Lion through an extremely narrow passage heading for the northern end of Bahia Magdalena and the nursery area of the California Gray whales. Hull Canal is famous for its bird life and just after lunch many of us headed for the bow, to enjoy spotting some of the feathered inhabitants who called the mangroves lining the Hull Canal their winter home. As the Sea Lion cruised closely to the port side of main channel, we passed a stand of mangroves where Great blue, Yellow-crowned night and Little blue herons were roosting and nesting.

As our first day moved towards late afternoon, we were all called to the lounge for our first presentation of our voyage. Larry Hobbs would regale us with his many years of experience in Bahia Magdalena doing research with California gray whales. As the afternoon light brought shadows to the sand dunes of the northern end of Isla Magdalena, we learned about the longest migrating mammal on the planet, which would indeed be the focus of our next two days, as we continued to explore the most southern whale lagoon along the Baja peninsula.