Lighthouse Reef, Belize

Billowing clouds towered above Halfmoon Cay when the ship drew near its mooring. Scuba divers departed in one direction, and Zodiacs whisked others across the flat sea to the palm-covered island where we could swim, snorkel, lounge, and stroll the trails. This beautiful site is protected because of the red-footed boobies and magnificent frigatebirds that nest here. Walkers set off for an elevated observation tower where nesting birds crowd together in the treetops of orange-flowered ziricote trees. Hefty hermit crabs scuttled below.

By now the fluffy white clouds had been replaced by a wall of ominous gray. Suddenly the squall hit. Hiding under the trees seemed like a good idea at first, but the drenching downpour quickly soaked just about everything. Fortunately, the day was relatively warm, and the storm passed while we continued with the morning’s activities.

Approximately 4000 boobies nest in this colony, and they and the frigatebirds were in all stages of breeding activity. Male frigates perched with their bright gular pouches fully distended like red balloons at a party. When a prospective mate flew overhead they clattered their bills, heads swaying in full display. These inflated sacks cannot deflate quickly, so individuals like the one in the photo could be seen flying overhead, colorful but certainly not streamlined for flight.

The afternoon was dedicated to undersea exploration and more beach relaxation. Divers and snorkelers staged from Zodiacs positioned over the reef. Black durgons, parrotfish, blue tangs, and other species in every color of the rainbow appeared before our masks, framed against a backdrop of delicate corals. It was another great day in this special part of the world.