Half-Moon Cay, Lighthouse Reef

Early this morning, the Sea Lion approached her morning moorage of Half-Moon Cay, the most southeastern cay of Lighthouse Reef. This reef became the first national park of Belize in 1981. The park protects not only the cay and part of the surrounding reef but also a large nesting colony of red-footed boobies and magnificent frigate birds.

Once breakfast was complete we made our way to the aft section of the vessel and our waiting Zodiacs. It was a short ride to the beach where we would be spending the entire day between the north and south end of this 25 mile long cay.

As soon as we landed we were invited by the natural history staff to take a short walk through the slightly wooded cay making our way to the nesting colony. Along a path of coconut palms and Zericote trees we meandered, listening to the trade winds, the birds in the distance, and paused now and then to learn just a little more about another interesting ecosystem of the Neotropics. From February to May is the flowering season for this region of Central America and today was yet another day to admire the showy blossoms presenting themselves to pollinators and providing sustenance for the animals, both flying and terrestrial who call Half-Moon Cay their home. Spider lilies and blood-berry, a species of Amaranth, all in flower underneath the blossoms of the Zericote trees!

On land today, our visual feast would be culminated with a small climb onto an observation tower to view the nesting in close proximity of two bird species that would normally have a rather “abusive” relationship with each other! Magnificent frigate birds are famous for their habit of parasitizing on boobies of several species; trying at length to force the boobies to regurgitate their hard-earned fish. Though here, at Half-Moon cay we watched these two species in nests side by side making the most of an ecosystem that provided great real-estate, food, and protection; what more could parents ask for while raising their young? After our time in the observation tower, eye level with nesting birds, we returned to the trail and continued walking north along this narrow cay, in search of a large iguana called a wish willy, a wonderfully spiny fellow easily found in sunny spots warming themselves in the early morning sun. Along the path if one looked down, one might notice a rather large turbine shell moving along the path… some of the largest hermit crabs many of us had seen were busy starting their day moving from land to sea in search of food. All too soon we were called back for our midday meal and the Zodiacs began returning to the Sea Lion.

While Meg Symington from the World Wildlife Fund gave us a talk on conservation in the Mesoamerica reef, our Natural history staff moved our beach location to the northern end of Half-Moon Cay, and once the afternoon sun had cooled slightly we made our way ashore for an afternoon of looking under the surface of the sea. Masks, snorkels and fins in hand, we made our way out along the reef that runs north ahead of us as far as we could see… large waves were breaking across the outer edge of this great barrier reef.

Under small waves we found a world filled with a myriad of corals, and tropical fish. We were able to swim in and out of the channels made by the reef and coral formations exploring under ledges where many creatures sought shelter… a Spiny lobster watched as one of the naturalists approached, clicking its antenna, in effect communicating. Carefully this crustacean was brought ashore for many of our group to admire. We watched and listened as the life history of this large lobster was explained to us. Then, understanding our good fortune to see such a creature even briefly, the lobster was returned to his underwater home. It was a clear indication of the health of this reef system and its protection… these creatures and other species of fish being the first to be harvested in unprotected areas throughout the Caribbean.

Slowly the sun made its way down in the western sky. We relaxed on the beach, enjoying cold drinks, ice cream and fresh coconut, marveling at this tiny corner of paradise behind the protection of a barrier reef off the coast of Belize, Central America.