Alert Bay, British Columbia
Gradually, through the night the Sea Lion continued on her southerly course. We made good time and early this morning we were on approach to the northern end of Queen Charlotte Sound. Seas were rolling slightly; allowing for a little relaxing this morning as the Sea Lion made her way towards Queen Charlotte Straight. Our vessel was three hours from our afternoon destination of Alert Bay on Cormorant Island.
As we continued to move south Sharon invited us to the forward lounge for a talk on Northwest Coast art. Through visual images and narrative Sharon took us on a journey connecting environment, weather, people and all the tools present along the Northwest coast that aid in creating one of the most unique art forms found in the world. From the mists, dense forests, the coasts and the sea we walked in a world that contributed strongly to the world of the people of the Northwest coast. Native peoples from the Coast Salish areas in the south around the border of Washington state and Canada to the northern area of Southeast Alaska combined all these elements to create form line design, a two dimensional art form that has endured for thousands of years continuing and evolving into the future.
Northwest Coast art can be expressed in prints, masks, totem poles, house fronts and elaborate button robes. The designs are laid out using five distinctive shapes and combining those with negative and positive space. In preparation for our afternoon in Alert Bay, Sharon shared narrative and visual explanation of the components of Northwest coast art, broken down into separate parts and then reassembled into masks, robes, house fronts, jewelry war helmets and totem poles. Soon we were within sight of Cormorant Island and the community of Alert Bay. As the Sea Lion approached the government dock in the center of town, the sacred ground of the cemetery came into view and elaborately painted totems standing as carved mortuary sculpture reminded each of us of the rich cultural diversity that is the Northwest Coast.
Once the Sea Lion was secured, and a gangway put in place, we were free to walk through town making our way to the U’Mista Cultural Center at the northern end of Alert Bay. Our group was divided into two groups and Lillian Hunt, a long time native resident of Alert Bay took each group through the Potlatch Collection in the lower section of this museum and cultural center. It was within the cedar posts and walls of the U’Mista Cultural Center that we began to understand the complexity and beauty of the culture of the Kwakwaka’wakw people. After both groups had toured U’Mista, we gathered outside to either walk or ride to the Big House a short distance away. Once inside the Big House the Tsasala Culture Group gifted us, with a dance performance. Members of this group range from the age of three to ninety-two! As the central fire burned and sunlight shifted through the open rafters of the roof of the Big House we watched as young children and their elders circled, sharing their greatest possessions; their songs and dances. Before each dance began explanations were made telling the story of the dance movements….then, the lead singer would initiate the sequence of beats upon the drum log….the song would begin….and the story unfolded in subtle rhythmic movements! Through the singing coming from the drumming log at the head of the Big House we could hear the shells and small pieces of decoration on the robes bouncing off of each other as these beautifully robed ladies glided and twirled around the dance floor, their arms gesturing in a Native ballet of movement and story.
The grand finale was an invitation to a fun dance where many of us were asked to come out and join in with the Tsasala members in their traditional dance of friendship. After many exchanges of thanks and a special gift exchange, we were all invited to share in a small treat of sockeye salmon barbecued in the traditional style, planked over a fire on the beach, and banoc with homemade jam!
All to soon we were called back to our floating home awaiting our arrival tied up in downtown Alert Bay. We slowly began our walk back to the Sea Lion , taking the flavors of beautifully prepared wild salmon, homemade jams and savory banoc and hearts filled with the warmth extended to us by our Native hosts.
