Punta Sal, Rio Tinto and Caribe Beach Bay, Honduras
Late last night Sea Lion left Puerto Cortez on Honduras’ north coast, and we sailed eastward, beginning our voyage exploring reefs and rivers of the Mayan world. By daybreak we were anchored next to bright green, lush hills of Jeannette Kawas National Park at Punta Sal. We boarded Zodiacs and followed the shoreline to the entrance of the Rio Tinto. Right at the river’s mouth, there were several colorful dugout canoes pulled up on the sand, and a handful of modest structures constructed with palm fronds. A couple dozen people on shore greeted us with friendly waves; it appeared that ships such as ours are rarely seen here. Curious, interested children surrounded the kayakers as they launched from this small beach. For more than 200 years the Garifuna have lived along the Caribbean coast of Central America. Descendants of Carib Indians and freed slaves, they have rich musical and dancing traditions, and a unique language with African roots. Two members of Sea Lion’s crew inquired about the local school, and they were led to the main part of the village, where they spoke with the teacher of the modest school. On behalf of Lindblad Expeditions, they left her with books and other supplies for the roughly 150 children she teaches.
We explored the river via Zodiacs and kayaks. Many species of herons and egrets fished stealthily along the river’s edge, while brown jays squawked noisily as they flew across the water. Some of the flatter areas along the river had been cleared, and there we saw piglets and cattle alongside cattle egrets. Jacanas walked close to the river edge, while oropendulas flew about erythrina trees, feasting on the enormous orange flowers. The many sharp eyes of birdwatchers found keel-billed toucans, falcons, trogons, parakeets and woodpeckers.
As we enjoyed a lunch of tamales, ‘arroz con pollo’ (chicken with rice), and black bean soup, the ship repositioned to the east. By the end of the snorkel briefing, we were anchored in a perfectly idyllic, cozy anchorage called Caribe Beach Bay. The Sea Lion was tucked behind a steep hill near the mouth of the hideaway. It seemed impossible, but this location was even closer to paradise than our morning anchorage. It was easy to understand why pirates hid along this shoreline; this cove was nearly totally encircled by green hills. We went ashore to a beautiful beach where coconut palms and beach almond trees provided some shade. One of those coconut palms had large oropendula nests hanging from nearly every frond. Some of us followed suit and relaxed in hammocks that we suspended under shady coconut palms. A few people dipped into the water to refresh snorkeling skills, while others simply swam or kayaked. A bit later, ‘flat walkers’ took Zodiacs around a peninsula where they did a sea-level hike. All of us, including those who remained on the beach, got to hear the barks and roars of mantled howler monkeys, and we watched them sleeping, eating . . . and staring back at us from the canopy.
The wind diminished as the day wore on, and by 7 PM conditions were calm enough to plan for an after dinner bonfire on the beach. A large group of us rode Zodiacs to shore through the inky black of the moonless night. With s’mores, sangria and other refreshments for our lively spirits, we had a festive time singing around the bonfire. The only lights were from the bonfire, our ship across the bay, and the stars above. It was a beautiful, memorable night.
Late last night Sea Lion left Puerto Cortez on Honduras’ north coast, and we sailed eastward, beginning our voyage exploring reefs and rivers of the Mayan world. By daybreak we were anchored next to bright green, lush hills of Jeannette Kawas National Park at Punta Sal. We boarded Zodiacs and followed the shoreline to the entrance of the Rio Tinto. Right at the river’s mouth, there were several colorful dugout canoes pulled up on the sand, and a handful of modest structures constructed with palm fronds. A couple dozen people on shore greeted us with friendly waves; it appeared that ships such as ours are rarely seen here. Curious, interested children surrounded the kayakers as they launched from this small beach. For more than 200 years the Garifuna have lived along the Caribbean coast of Central America. Descendants of Carib Indians and freed slaves, they have rich musical and dancing traditions, and a unique language with African roots. Two members of Sea Lion’s crew inquired about the local school, and they were led to the main part of the village, where they spoke with the teacher of the modest school. On behalf of Lindblad Expeditions, they left her with books and other supplies for the roughly 150 children she teaches.
We explored the river via Zodiacs and kayaks. Many species of herons and egrets fished stealthily along the river’s edge, while brown jays squawked noisily as they flew across the water. Some of the flatter areas along the river had been cleared, and there we saw piglets and cattle alongside cattle egrets. Jacanas walked close to the river edge, while oropendulas flew about erythrina trees, feasting on the enormous orange flowers. The many sharp eyes of birdwatchers found keel-billed toucans, falcons, trogons, parakeets and woodpeckers.
As we enjoyed a lunch of tamales, ‘arroz con pollo’ (chicken with rice), and black bean soup, the ship repositioned to the east. By the end of the snorkel briefing, we were anchored in a perfectly idyllic, cozy anchorage called Caribe Beach Bay. The Sea Lion was tucked behind a steep hill near the mouth of the hideaway. It seemed impossible, but this location was even closer to paradise than our morning anchorage. It was easy to understand why pirates hid along this shoreline; this cove was nearly totally encircled by green hills. We went ashore to a beautiful beach where coconut palms and beach almond trees provided some shade. One of those coconut palms had large oropendula nests hanging from nearly every frond. Some of us followed suit and relaxed in hammocks that we suspended under shady coconut palms. A few people dipped into the water to refresh snorkeling skills, while others simply swam or kayaked. A bit later, ‘flat walkers’ took Zodiacs around a peninsula where they did a sea-level hike. All of us, including those who remained on the beach, got to hear the barks and roars of mantled howler monkeys, and we watched them sleeping, eating . . . and staring back at us from the canopy.
The wind diminished as the day wore on, and by 7 PM conditions were calm enough to plan for an after dinner bonfire on the beach. A large group of us rode Zodiacs to shore through the inky black of the moonless night. With s’mores, sangria and other refreshments for our lively spirits, we had a festive time singing around the bonfire. The only lights were from the bonfire, our ship across the bay, and the stars above. It was a beautiful, memorable night.
