Islas Partidas Norte and Raza
Every morning around 5:00 a.m. or so, the eastern sky starts to lighten with the approach of the sun. So far, there has not been a cloud in the sky to interfere with the outrageous sunrises that the Sea of Cortez is so famous for. And today was no exception.
We dropped anchor just off shore of Isla Partida Norte and Expedition Leader Tom Ritchie announced the many options available to our guests. The Zodiacs pulled up to the stable Sea Voyager platform and started loading our eager guests. The first boats were to head to the far side of the island to explore. The island is the breeding site for the least and black storm-petrels. Storm-petrels are the smallest oceanic birds and are completely pelagic outside the breeding season feeding on plankton and scraps taken from the ocean surface.
A Zodiac cruise around the island gave our viewers the chance to observe the astounding basalt formations, their tops adorned with white bird guano. We thought this might be a great snorkel opportunity and set out a snorkel boat in the shallow clear water. The bottom was covered with rocks of different shapes and sizes; an array of colored sea urchins moved ever so slowly over their tarnished surfaces. Even though the water seemed a bit cool, it didn’t seem to affect the fish life. Thousands of tiny sardines hugged the shoreline near the surface while colorful wrasses and puffers maneuvered in and out of the numerous crevices below. There seemed to be an abundance of stingrays as we spotted several flapping and undulating their “wings” as they propelled themselves across the rough bottom in search of a mollusk or two.
After a tasty Mexican feast of tacos filled with everything and a delicious cool mango sorbet to clean the palate, we approached the island of Raza and started ferrying ashore quickly. We had to take advantage of the high tide in order to navigate to and from the island.
We had an invitation from the head warden and researcher, Enriquetta Velarde to visit this remarkable island and her birds. Initially, as far as we could see, the island was covered with the nests of Heermann’s gull. We had to be very careful where we put our feet along the trail because the birds had their nests everywhere including on the trail, which was not easy to make out amidst the jumble of rocks. Most of the nests contained two to three speckled brown eggs the size of large chicken eggs. And then we reached a crest and looked down! Thousands of elegant terns and royal terns had gathered here to breed and nest as they do every spring for the last century (see photo). But even though there seemed to be plenty of room, they were packed densely together. By doing this, they are able to defend their nests and chicks from marauding gulls that are hovering close by. The gulls nest on the perimeter of this mass of terns and any other space that’s available. The air was filled with the din of ‘barking’ gulls and shrieking terns.
Enriquetta then came aboard and delivered a most amazing presentation about her research and findings of the intertwined lives of these sea birds. A cruise around Raza at dusk allowed us to witness the birds from a different perspective. As the sun sunk below the distant island, our eyes were focused and ready for a glimpse of the “green flash” phenomenon. We were not disappointed! And to top that off, the largest full moon that I have ever seen rose up out of the water off our bow…need I say more?
Every morning around 5:00 a.m. or so, the eastern sky starts to lighten with the approach of the sun. So far, there has not been a cloud in the sky to interfere with the outrageous sunrises that the Sea of Cortez is so famous for. And today was no exception.
We dropped anchor just off shore of Isla Partida Norte and Expedition Leader Tom Ritchie announced the many options available to our guests. The Zodiacs pulled up to the stable Sea Voyager platform and started loading our eager guests. The first boats were to head to the far side of the island to explore. The island is the breeding site for the least and black storm-petrels. Storm-petrels are the smallest oceanic birds and are completely pelagic outside the breeding season feeding on plankton and scraps taken from the ocean surface.
A Zodiac cruise around the island gave our viewers the chance to observe the astounding basalt formations, their tops adorned with white bird guano. We thought this might be a great snorkel opportunity and set out a snorkel boat in the shallow clear water. The bottom was covered with rocks of different shapes and sizes; an array of colored sea urchins moved ever so slowly over their tarnished surfaces. Even though the water seemed a bit cool, it didn’t seem to affect the fish life. Thousands of tiny sardines hugged the shoreline near the surface while colorful wrasses and puffers maneuvered in and out of the numerous crevices below. There seemed to be an abundance of stingrays as we spotted several flapping and undulating their “wings” as they propelled themselves across the rough bottom in search of a mollusk or two.
After a tasty Mexican feast of tacos filled with everything and a delicious cool mango sorbet to clean the palate, we approached the island of Raza and started ferrying ashore quickly. We had to take advantage of the high tide in order to navigate to and from the island.
We had an invitation from the head warden and researcher, Enriquetta Velarde to visit this remarkable island and her birds. Initially, as far as we could see, the island was covered with the nests of Heermann’s gull. We had to be very careful where we put our feet along the trail because the birds had their nests everywhere including on the trail, which was not easy to make out amidst the jumble of rocks. Most of the nests contained two to three speckled brown eggs the size of large chicken eggs. And then we reached a crest and looked down! Thousands of elegant terns and royal terns had gathered here to breed and nest as they do every spring for the last century (see photo). But even though there seemed to be plenty of room, they were packed densely together. By doing this, they are able to defend their nests and chicks from marauding gulls that are hovering close by. The gulls nest on the perimeter of this mass of terns and any other space that’s available. The air was filled with the din of ‘barking’ gulls and shrieking terns.
Enriquetta then came aboard and delivered a most amazing presentation about her research and findings of the intertwined lives of these sea birds. A cruise around Raza at dusk allowed us to witness the birds from a different perspective. As the sun sunk below the distant island, our eyes were focused and ready for a glimpse of the “green flash” phenomenon. We were not disappointed! And to top that off, the largest full moon that I have ever seen rose up out of the water off our bow…need I say more?
