Angel de la Guarda Island and Puerto Alcatraz, Baja California

A call from our PA system woke us up this morning to observe a big group of birds in a feeding frenzy, mainly Herrmann’s and yellow-footed gulls. As we sailed away from them, we realized that many least and black storm-petrels were still on the ship after a night of great activity close to their nesting sites on Partida Island. Before and after breakfast we were entertained gently releasing these beautiful dark birds.

Later on we anchored at Puerto Refugio, in the northeastern part of Angel de la Guarda – the second largest island in the Sea of Cortes, where we hiked on its grassy slopes. As we went through we heard the beautiful songs of the Northern Mockingbirds, called “Centzontles” in Mexican Spanish. “Centzontle” comes from the Aztec word “Centzontli,” that means “bird of the four hundred voices” in regard to their ability to imitate a wide range of songs from other bird species. We also observed black-throated sparrows, vireos, lizards, cardon cacti, limber bushes, ants and chuckwallas.

By noon we sailed along the Canal de Ballenas (The Whales’ Channel), between Angel de la Guarda Island and the Baja peninsula, seeking marine mammals. This channel is regarded as having one of the richest waters in the Gulf of California due to the occurrence of upwelling. The upwellings consist of deep cold waters that bring with them debris and sediments from the bottom as they move upward. In fact, good luck accompanied us around 2:00 PM when we found a group of 9 to 12 Risso’s Dolphins. They were traveling quietly into the mirror-like ocean, apparently just looking for food. We followed them for maybe 45 minutes observing their graceful movements and hearing their deep inhalations and exhalations. Their bodies, also, were covered by scars that made them look like gray veined marble.

Right after lunch, we got into Bahia Alcatraz, on the peninsula of Baja California, that lies in the dry rain-shadow side of the gulf. There we kayaked, snorkeled and swam at different spots, or just stayed on the beach. Our Undersea Specialist and Dive Master went together into the water and reported groupers (also called “garropas” by local fisherman), horned sharks and electric rays as well as a number of different bony fishes and marine invertebrates. During our hikes on the crest of surrounding hills we observed many elephant trees or “torotes” with clusters of pink flowers that perfumed the air.

Finally, we ended up the day with a delicious BBQ on the beach contemplating the sunset, the ocean and the endless life cycle with some pelicans and cormorants trying to get the last food of the day, just like us.