Manatee River and Goffs Key, Belize

Just off the central coast of Belize, with glassy calm seas, we venture forth on our first adventure: searching for the eponymous marine mammal of Manatee River. Cruising upstream on the limpid waters that drain South Lagoon in both kayaks and Zodiacs we are greeted by flocks of vociferous parrots, plunging terns and skeins of white ibis crossing overhead. At virtually every meander we idle and wait, and are not disappointed. Tiny noses, a snorted breath, then large rounded backs and distinctive rounded flukes verify our sightings. Several travel the greenish waters in a line as we follow some distance behind. One very small fluke indicates that part of the group contains an obvious cow-calf pair. Black hawks and immature little blue herons circle overhead as we enter Southern Lagoon, our deepest penetration of this mangrove wilderness. Returning to the Sea Voyager we find feeding spotted dolphins around the boat. While we speed nearby, they remain intent on feeding and are not tempted to surf in front of our bow wakes.

Taking advantage of the glassy seas, we head eastward towards the edge of Belize’s Barrier Reef, the second largest such barrier structure in the world. Despite the great underwater structure we land at a tiny spot of white sand with a palm-thatched palapa, ten palm trees, and marvelous snorkeling. Now gentle breezes rustle through the fronds, we set up beach chairs, hammocks, and set out the beverage-packed coolers.

While spotted eagle rays cruised in the clear lagoon, we donned snorkel gear to view the curious shapes of coral mounds, branching sponges, waving gorgonian whips and fans. Schools of multi-hued reef fishes dazzled in their diversity and colors. SCUBA divers ventured further off the island to explore the reef margin and marvel at the marine menagerie. Highlights included spotted drum and the uncommonly seen Ocean triggerfish.

Our call to dinner was delayed to marvel at the flaming pinks and oranges of a spectacular tropical sunset over the ancient land of the Maya.