Bona and Otoque Islands, Bay of Panama
What a beautiful place to wake up. We left the hustle and bustle of the Panama Canal, with its bells and whistles, clangs and shouts, lights and action, to anchor in the quiet waters next to the two islands of Bona and Otoque in the Gulf of Panama. Morning provided soft pastel colors at daybreak and sea birds by the hundreds spiraling off their breeding grounds as the air warmed.
By Zodiac we explored the steep coastlines of the islands and saw brown pelicans, brown boobies, blue-footed boobies and magnificent frigatebirds in breeding plumage or some already beyond that stage on nests or protecting chicks. A black vulture landed near a frigatebird nest, but after a while gave up its attempt to intimidate the parent in hopes the egg or chick would be left exposed for predation. The seas were calm, but large swells caused slow, powerful surges to work the shoreline. Local fishermen were paddling their colorful dugouts and throwing out hand-lines, having come from their small seaside village around the corner. Both birds and man here share in the bounty of the sea, inhabiting the same small piece of land in the middle of a huge expanse of ocean.
For ourselves, although few partook of the chance to swim off the stern later (for the water temperatures were quite cool), others practiced with the kayaks in preparation for future paddling opportunities.
By noon we were ready to start our longest open-ocean crossing, southwest towards tomorrow’s destination of Coiba Island. The best place in the house (out in front of the bridge) was the place to be, and spotters almost immediately found marine life in the form of golden rays by the dozen. As we cruised slowly away from the islands, these rays showed as golden autumn leaves on the surface of the sea, mustard-colored diamonds flying serenely just below the surface. We left them behind only to find dolphins later in the afternoon, both bottle-nosed and spotted, swimming determinedly towards who-knows-what appointment with dinner (although they deigned to bow-ride briefly before continuing on their way).
The southern cross is starting to rise on the horizon as I write, with Orion crossing overhead in regal state. The big dipper is as obvious as all get-out, and the planets shine in a clear sky brightly lit by the moon.
What a beautiful place to wake up. We left the hustle and bustle of the Panama Canal, with its bells and whistles, clangs and shouts, lights and action, to anchor in the quiet waters next to the two islands of Bona and Otoque in the Gulf of Panama. Morning provided soft pastel colors at daybreak and sea birds by the hundreds spiraling off their breeding grounds as the air warmed.
By Zodiac we explored the steep coastlines of the islands and saw brown pelicans, brown boobies, blue-footed boobies and magnificent frigatebirds in breeding plumage or some already beyond that stage on nests or protecting chicks. A black vulture landed near a frigatebird nest, but after a while gave up its attempt to intimidate the parent in hopes the egg or chick would be left exposed for predation. The seas were calm, but large swells caused slow, powerful surges to work the shoreline. Local fishermen were paddling their colorful dugouts and throwing out hand-lines, having come from their small seaside village around the corner. Both birds and man here share in the bounty of the sea, inhabiting the same small piece of land in the middle of a huge expanse of ocean.
For ourselves, although few partook of the chance to swim off the stern later (for the water temperatures were quite cool), others practiced with the kayaks in preparation for future paddling opportunities.
By noon we were ready to start our longest open-ocean crossing, southwest towards tomorrow’s destination of Coiba Island. The best place in the house (out in front of the bridge) was the place to be, and spotters almost immediately found marine life in the form of golden rays by the dozen. As we cruised slowly away from the islands, these rays showed as golden autumn leaves on the surface of the sea, mustard-colored diamonds flying serenely just below the surface. We left them behind only to find dolphins later in the afternoon, both bottle-nosed and spotted, swimming determinedly towards who-knows-what appointment with dinner (although they deigned to bow-ride briefly before continuing on their way).
The southern cross is starting to rise on the horizon as I write, with Orion crossing overhead in regal state. The big dipper is as obvious as all get-out, and the planets shine in a clear sky brightly lit by the moon.
