When dawn broke on National Geographic Quest, she found herself deep amongst the towering peaks and narrow fjords of Glacier Bay National Park. The early morning light brought us to Johns Hopkins Glacier, which stood steadfast with brilliant blue streaks of compact ice illuminated by the soft light of a moody Alaska day. We sailed back down the inlet, observing bears at Russell Cut, mountain goats at Gloomy Knob, and the diverse species that call South Marble Island home. Evening brought us to Bartlett Cove, headquarters of GBNP. We docked and took a stroll through towering Sitka spruce forests while birds chirped overhead, and the sounds of humpback whale spouts echoed across the cove. What a magical day indeed at southeast Alaska’s crown jewel, Glacier Bay National Park.
9/9/2023
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National Geographic Quest
Ushk Bay
Morning fog swallowed the Southeast Alaskan wilderness. As we cruised into Ushk Bay, anticipation seized the vessel. This morning’s hikes and Zodiac cruises were to be our final operations of the trip; every last one of us was eager to be ensconced in the wonders of the Tongass once again. Following a delicious breakfast — prepared by head chef Paul Cotta and his dedicated team — we set out for shore. Through a light rain we cruised on Zodiacs toward our landing, scattering bald eagles and common mergansers that had congregated along the shore. Ushk Bay’s annual salmon run was nearing its conclusion —and we could smell it. The shoreline was littered with rotting carcasses of pink and chum salmon, many of which were picked apart by corvids, gulls, and bears. Whether or not any of these individuals survived long enough to spawn is a mystery, but there is one certainty amidst this carnage — their sacrifice is not in vain. Their carcasses will enrich this place, injecting the forest with nutrients from the sea. Our last afternoon was spent cruising toward our anchorage near Sitka. The final day of a Lindblad Expeditions cruise is always a hard day. We have all forged new bonds in the fires of wilderness. Every one of us has found ourselves challenged and rewarded, humbled and humored, inspired and inspirational throughout this week. Our new bonds will, thanks to modern technology, be preserved in photographs and videos. Many will be carried on through photos and emails, but this group will never be reconstituted. Though it’s hard to say goodbye, the impermanence of this troupe makes the experience all the more poignant. These adventurers will surely be missed.
