This morning, the reason for turning our clocks ahead became painfully clear. Our expedition leader’s voice came over the loud speakers at the ungodly hour of 4 a.m. The reason for this was billed as what could be the highlight of our expedition: a dawn visit to Gold Harbour, an easterly-facing beach with thousands of elephant seals and king penguins.
From the moment we arrived at the beach, we saw the gauntlet of elephant seals defending their territories. For some of us, it was one of the most exciting moments in our lives.