We started the day with a black bear sighting on Prince of Wales Island, where we anchored for our hikes on Grindall island. The first operation of the day was a vigorous bushwhacking hike in the mud. I however did a much more civilized leisurely walk in the woods and intertidal exploration searching for sea creatures. After the hikes we did a Zodiac circumnavigation of the island and found a small haul out of boisterous and stinky young male Steller sea lions. It was a bachelor pad with only the sea lions that are too young to claim a spot on the mating beaches. After lunch we cruised for a while looking for other wildlife on our way to Hump Island Oyster Company and we found two humpbacks bubble-net feeding. Bubble-net feeding is a type of cooperative feeding strategy the uses tools (bubbles). This is rare in the animal world and is not often seen outside of Southeast Alaska. At Hump Island we tasted some delicious oysters with kelp salsa and learned a lot about the challenges of oyster farming.
9/9/2023
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National Geographic Quest
Ushk Bay
Morning fog swallowed the Southeast Alaskan wilderness. As we cruised into Ushk Bay, anticipation seized the vessel. This morning’s hikes and Zodiac cruises were to be our final operations of the trip; every last one of us was eager to be ensconced in the wonders of the Tongass once again. Following a delicious breakfast — prepared by head chef Paul Cotta and his dedicated team — we set out for shore. Through a light rain we cruised on Zodiacs toward our landing, scattering bald eagles and common mergansers that had congregated along the shore. Ushk Bay’s annual salmon run was nearing its conclusion —and we could smell it. The shoreline was littered with rotting carcasses of pink and chum salmon, many of which were picked apart by corvids, gulls, and bears. Whether or not any of these individuals survived long enough to spawn is a mystery, but there is one certainty amidst this carnage — their sacrifice is not in vain. Their carcasses will enrich this place, injecting the forest with nutrients from the sea. Our last afternoon was spent cruising toward our anchorage near Sitka. The final day of a Lindblad Expeditions cruise is always a hard day. We have all forged new bonds in the fires of wilderness. Every one of us has found ourselves challenged and rewarded, humbled and humored, inspired and inspirational throughout this week. Our new bonds will, thanks to modern technology, be preserved in photographs and videos. Many will be carried on through photos and emails, but this group will never be reconstituted. Though it’s hard to say goodbye, the impermanence of this troupe makes the experience all the more poignant. These adventurers will surely be missed.
