The morning dawned with swirling patterns of gray. Chunks of ice from the LeConte glacier were grounded in the distance as we anchored at Ideal Cove and dropped expedition landing craft into the water. Heading to shore kingfishers swooped over the water, chattering at us as they scanned for small fish. Once ashore we split into groups and headed up a boardwalk trail into the forest. Fall colors splashed the greenery with brilliant flashes of berries (which were devoured en route)—highbush cranberries, blueberries, bunchberries (not the tastiest), watermelon berries. Some of the walks reached as far as a lake surrounded by sphagnum moss and yellow cedar. Stellar jays laughed in guffawing jeers as we wandered the boardwalk, blue plumage standing out like sapphires against the greenery. Once back aboard National Geographic Sea Bird, naturalist extraordinaire David Stephens presented a talk on the native art traditions of the northwest coast.

Following lunch we docked in the town of Petersburg, a small fishing town founded on a strong Norwegian heritage. Flightseers boarded floatplanes and took to the skies to look down upon glacier, icefield, and wildlife. Walkers cruised to a muskeg on Kupreanof Island, learning about the unique ecosystem that typifies a large part of Southeast Alaska. Other walkers hit the docks, learning about the fishing fleet and undersea creatures growing on the underside of the dock. Photographers pulled out their smartphones for a hands-on session, which ended in pouring rain and great slow-motion video of splashing raindrops. The evening ended with a preview of our video chronicle, Dungeness crab feast, and after-dinner presentation by David Stephens.