Tobermory looked vibrant in the early morning light with the colorful houses and shops sitting quietly awaiting the bustle of morning tourists coming from the mainland. Fortunately for us we were already in situ from last night and were able to enjoy a guided walk by Konia, Steve and Stewart along the still-empty streets. Despite it’s small size, Tobermory has a lot of history to be discovered and the Lindblad staff did a great job in revealing the depth of information available, both ancient and modern.  

We departed late morning for the Isle of Eigg and en route Steve gave us a talk that explained the island’s very recent history involving cruel and uncaring landlords, latterly a Swiss and then a German, which pushed the inhabitants to the point of rebellion. After many incidents and false starts the islanders were able to buy the island from their last neglectful landlord and develop it into the modern 21st century community we saw while ashore. Its complicated and upsetting history is far overshadowed by its tranquil and stunning natural beauty. Despite heavy showers and sometimes blustery winds we thoroughly appreciated our time on this important and rarely-visited haven.  

Our next move was back to the Scottish mainland for the little hamlet of Inverie in Loch Nevis. On the way Iris finished off her two-part history of Scotland and timed it perfectly, for just as she completed her fascinating, in-depth exposure of Scotland we were alongside in Inverie. There are no roads connecting Inverie to the rest of the mainland andconsequently the only way in and out is by boat. As a result, the local pub, The Old Forge Inn, is listed in the Guinness Book of Records as the UK’s most remote pub. Despite being so remote the pub was busy and cheery as we stopped in for a pint and/or a whisky and a chance to socialize with some of the very few people who call Inverie their home.  

As we walked the few yards back to the ship through the evening gloaming we were struck by just how silent a place can be when there are no cars and cell phones to steal the peace. We should all sleep well tonight in the serenity of Inverie after a full and eventful day.