We woke early to a gently rolling swell and clouds over the Gulf of Alaska as we made our way down the outer coast to Salisbury Sound. We watched from the bow of National Geographic Venture as members of the salmon fleet left their anchorages bound for the Fairweather fishing grounds. We were headed to Krestof Sound, a body of water protected from prevailing winds to the northwest of Sitka in Southeast Alaska, and our destination for activities on this rainy afternoon. We boarded kayaks, bushwacked through the understory of a mature forest, and rode Zodiacs through quiet lagoons and coves. The rain, pelting at times, was nevertheless a relief for the temperate rainforest. We watched quietly as deer came out to graze along the back-beach areas of the sound, and a family of mergansers took a swim in the placid waters. Today was a quiet and relaxing end to our adventures, and we look forward to our final day in Sitka.
9/9/2023
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National Geographic Quest
Ushk Bay
Morning fog swallowed the Southeast Alaskan wilderness. As we cruised into Ushk Bay, anticipation seized the vessel. This morning’s hikes and Zodiac cruises were to be our final operations of the trip; every last one of us was eager to be ensconced in the wonders of the Tongass once again. Following a delicious breakfast — prepared by head chef Paul Cotta and his dedicated team — we set out for shore. Through a light rain we cruised on Zodiacs toward our landing, scattering bald eagles and common mergansers that had congregated along the shore. Ushk Bay’s annual salmon run was nearing its conclusion —and we could smell it. The shoreline was littered with rotting carcasses of pink and chum salmon, many of which were picked apart by corvids, gulls, and bears. Whether or not any of these individuals survived long enough to spawn is a mystery, but there is one certainty amidst this carnage — their sacrifice is not in vain. Their carcasses will enrich this place, injecting the forest with nutrients from the sea. Our last afternoon was spent cruising toward our anchorage near Sitka. The final day of a Lindblad Expeditions cruise is always a hard day. We have all forged new bonds in the fires of wilderness. Every one of us has found ourselves challenged and rewarded, humbled and humored, inspired and inspirational throughout this week. Our new bonds will, thanks to modern technology, be preserved in photographs and videos. Many will be carried on through photos and emails, but this group will never be reconstituted. Though it’s hard to say goodbye, the impermanence of this troupe makes the experience all the more poignant. These adventurers will surely be missed.
