We awoke to a serene, foggy morning at our safe and secluded anchorage outside Sitka. We cruised through the Sergius Narrows and Peril Strait, enjoying the scenery and looking for wildlife along the way. Following our morning staff introductions, kayak and Zodiac briefings, and the smartphone presentation by our certified photo instructor, we spent the afternoon hiking on Baranof Island near Lake Eva. Our hikes meandered through old growth temperate rainforest, following the stream that cascades down from Lake Eva to the bay. The stream was full of pink salmon making their journey upstream to the lake for spawning. The dwarf dogwoods were full of bunchberries along the trail, and the trees were majestic and full of mosses and lichens. On our return hike, we encountered a brown bear fishing for salmon in the lagoon. While loading the Zodiacs to head back to the ship, we saw the bear again, this time with her two cubs!
National Geographic Quest
Morning fog swallowed the Southeast Alaskan wilderness. As we cruised into Ushk Bay, anticipation seized the vessel. This morning’s hikes and Zodiac cruises were to be our final operations of the trip; every last one of us was eager to be ensconced in the wonders of the Tongass once again. Following a delicious breakfast — prepared by head chef Paul Cotta and his dedicated team — we set out for shore. Through a light rain we cruised on Zodiacs toward our landing, scattering bald eagles and common mergansers that had congregated along the shore. Ushk Bay’s annual salmon run was nearing its conclusion —and we could smell it. The shoreline was littered with rotting carcasses of pink and chum salmon, many of which were picked apart by corvids, gulls, and bears. Whether or not any of these individuals survived long enough to spawn is a mystery, but there is one certainty amidst this carnage — their sacrifice is not in vain. Their carcasses will enrich this place, injecting the forest with nutrients from the sea. Our last afternoon was spent cruising toward our anchorage near Sitka. The final day of a Lindblad Expeditions cruise is always a hard day. We have all forged new bonds in the fires of wilderness. Every one of us has found ourselves challenged and rewarded, humbled and humored, inspired and inspirational throughout this week. Our new bonds will, thanks to modern technology, be preserved in photographs and videos. Many will be carried on through photos and emails, but this group will never be reconstituted. Though it’s hard to say goodbye, the impermanence of this troupe makes the experience all the more poignant. These adventurers will surely be missed.