Lemaire Channel and Pleneau Island
  • Daily Expedition Reports
  • 25 Dec 2021

Lemaire Channel and Pleneau Island, 12/25/2021, National Geographic Resolution

  • Aboard the National Geographic Resolution
  • Antarctica

I’m dreaming of a white Christmas!

 

Snow arrived during the night, and we awoke to the surrounding mountains covered in fresh powder! Snow continued to fall as National Geographic Resolution made her way through the Lemaire Channel, blanketing the ship in an ethereal downy covering. We continued through the channel and encountered pack ice. We pushed through before turning around to head to our afternoon destination.

 

Pleneau Island is on the southern border of the iceberg graveyard, a place where huge icebergs are blown in from open water to the west. The bergs get caught up in the relatively shallow waters off Pleneau Island and make for an incredible Zodiac tour. Zipping around the icebergs reminded us of the power and majesty of Antarctica.

 

Everyone enjoyed a special sing-along in the Ice Lounge in the late evening. We sang all of the old favorite carols, and many a toast was made! Merry Christmas to all, and to all a good night!

 

Christmas at Sea

 

The sheets were frozen hard, and they cut the naked hand;

The decks were like a slide, where a seaman scarce could stand;

The wind was a nor’wester, blowing squally off the sea;

And cliffs and spouting breakers were the only thing a-lee.

 

They heard the surf a-roaring before the break of day;

But ‘twas only with the peep of light we saw how ill we lay.

We tumbled every hand on deck instanter, with a shout,

And we gave her the maintops’l, and stood by to go about.

 

All day we tacked and tacked between the South Head and the North;

All day we hauled the frozen sheets, and got no further forth;

All day as cold as charity, in bitter pain and dread,

For very life and nature we tacked from head to head.

 

We gave the South a wider berth, for there the tide race roared;

But every tack we made we brought the North Head close aboard:

So’s we saw the cliff and houses, and the breakers running high,

And the coastguard in his garden, with his glass against his eye.

 

The frost was on the village roofs as white as ocean foam;

The good red fires were burning bright in every ‘longshore home;

The windows sparkled clear, and the chimneys volleyed out;

And I vow we sniffed the victuals as the vessel went about.

 

The bells upon the church were rung with a mighty jovial cheer;

For it’s just that I should tell you how (of all days in the year)

This day of our adversity was blessed Christmas morn,

And the house above the coastguard’s was the house where I was born.

 

O well I saw the pleasant room, the pleasant faces there,

My mother’s silver spectacles, my father’s silver hair;

And well I saw the firelight, like a flight of homely elves,

Go dancing round the china-plates that stand upon the shelves.

 

And well I knew the talk they had, the talk that was of me,

Of the shadow on the household and the son that went to sea;

And O the wicked fool I seemed, in every kind of way,

To be here and hauling frozen ropes on blessed Christmas Day.

 

They lit the high sea-light, and the dark began to fall.

“All hands to loose topgallant sails,” I heard the captain call.

“By the lord, she’ll never stand it,” our first mate, Jackson, cried.

…“It’s the one way or the other, Mr. Jackson,” he replied.

 

She staggered to her bearings, but the sails were new and good.

And the ship smelt up to windward just as though she understood.

As the winter’s day was ending, in the entry of the night,

We cleared the weary headland, and passed below the light.

 

And they heaved a mighty breath, every soul on board but me,

As they saw her nose again pointing handsome out to sea;

But all that I could think of, in the darkness and the cold,

Was just that I was leaving home and my folks were growing old.

 

Robert Louis Stevenson, first published on December 22, 1888

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