Öland and Kalmar, 5/23/2023, National Geographic Explorer
Aboard the
National Geographic Explorer
Europe & British Isles
We spent the last day of our Baltic adventure in Öland and Kalmar, located in the southeastern part of the country. Some guests spent the day on the island of Öland. They explored its fortifications and storied past while strolling through Ottenby, one of the most famous birdwatching spots in all of Sweden. Other guests visited the castle and the town of Kalmar, which was built in the 12th century. They relaxed by strolling through streets and visiting Kronan, a famous museum of a 17th century shipwreck.
Unfortunately, all good things come to an end. At 16:00, we had to start heading towards Copenhagen. We enjoyed the navigation while sharing memories and photographs taken during the trip, a beautiful sunset, and a final night of cocktails during which Captain Yuri bid us farewell. We all hope to see each other again soon.
Maria Intxaustegi is an internationally awarded maritime archaeologist, naval historian, commercial diver, professional offshore sailor, and expedition guide from the Basque Country.
National Geographic Explorer tied up at the Elevatorkajen in Kalmar, directly opposite the magnificent former grain mill of local entrepreneur Jensen, built in the early 20th century. Today was another spectacularly beautiful day with clear skies and hardly any wind. We set off in Zodiacs for a short drive around the modern harbour headland towards the grand old Kalmar Castle. It sits on its own little island, surrounded by beefcake bulwarks. Above the walls, elegant, copper-clad roofs and peculiar ‘Renaissance’ gables rise up. We had a dry landing on a jetty next to the park. Lovely rhododendrons were everywhere. In 1397, Queen Margaret the First united the three countries – Norway, Sweden, and Denmark – into the Kalmar Union, under one king, mostly to be able to compete with the aggressive Hanse. The Union survived until 1523 when Gustavus Adolphus Wasa left the union and proclaimed Sweden’s independence on June 6th – exactly 500 years ago. Today’s holiday was clearly very special to the Swedes, although they are not known for their extravagant parties. Kalmar Castle served as the union’s political centre until it was captured by the Danes, and its military importance waned thereafter. King Gustav I and his sons completely rebuilt and refurnished it, turning the medieval fortress into a castle fit for a Renaissance king. In the grand reception rooms, not much remains, but our guide did an excellent job of recreating courtly life (including a series of poisonings) for us. We saw the king’s private bedchamber with elaborate marquetry, and a secret passage behind one of the carved panels was a colourful highlight. Afterwards, we strolled over the green ramparts close to the Baltic Sea (and a host of screaming seagulls) to get back to our Zodiacs. In the afternoon, a smaller contingent followed our guide Mia through the streets of Kalmar, or rather, ‘New Kalmar’: a fortified city laid out in mid-17th century with a classical, even martial grid. In the centre: the grand but solid Domkirk – the main church – built by Tessin Jr. in a baroque style – something not often seen in Sweden. Across the street: the old city hall, in ‘Dutch’ Renaissance style, with a peculiar emblem in its gable – a young tree held up by a golden support pole. The message: Obsequiam Iuvat – Obedience pays off. A stern message from the king to the townsfolk (he had the mayors and the judges beheaded, at one time). Then: the Kalmar County Museum, which hosts a really good display on Kronan , the flagship of a Swedish fleet that exploded and sank during a battle with Danish and Dutch ships off Öland. As in the Vasa Museum, hundreds of objects were recovered from the wreck, and not just guns – a hoard of gold coins, clothes belonging to the unfortunate admiral Creutz (we met his great-great-great grandson two weeks ago, in Malmgård, Finland), and so on. Then: a last juddgrubb ice cream, and all aboard for the last stretch of our voyage.
Once again, incredible spring weather accompanied us as we sailed towards the island of Gotland and the fairy tale town of Visby, Sweden. This enchanting medieval town dates to the 12th century and is a UNESCO World Heritage site. Our guests had the choice of a guided bike tour of the countryside, a roaming countryside tour, or a short walking tour of Visby and Gotland's museum of cultural history. Each option gave guests the opportunity to discover the largest island in the Baltic Sea and one of Sweden's most attractive travel destinations. Medieval Visby has more church ruins than any other town in Sweden, and many of them are well preserved. We had the rare opportunity to enjoy a private performance by the local choir, “Visby Vokalensenble,” in the remains of the Romanesque church of St. Clement, built in the middle of the 13th century. Once we stepped through the portal into the church, we were transported back to the Middle Ages. What a wonderful experience and a great ending to this fantastic day.
Sunday dawned cool but sunny, and a gentle breeze rippled the waters of Stockholm Harbour as the ship awoke. Guests enjoyed breakfast with scenic views of Gamlastan on the one side and the tall ship of Chapman on the other. The day’s first activity was an early morning presentation delivered by Jim Hannson and Patrick Hoglund of the Vrak Museum of Wrecks. Their talk about the maritime archaeology of the Baltic and the story of the excavation of the Vasa’s sister ship Applet whetted guests’ appetite for the next activity – a visit to the spectacular Vasa , now in its own museum in the city. The best way to get around Stockholm is by boat, and so it was by Zodiac that we arrived at the fabulous museum. Nothing can truly prepare first time visitors for the entry to the museum, where this great warship – beautifully preserved for nearly 300 years in the waters of Stockholm – now resides. For many, it was enough to simply wander around the levels overlooking the ship, but local guides were also on hand to explain the intricacies of the ship’s rescue and restoration. After lunch on board and an invigorating walk around the harbour for some guests, we prepared for the afternoon excursions. One group went on a walking tour of Gamlastan, the city’s historic quarter, where evidence of settlement right back to the Vikings can be found in the narrow and scenic streets. Another group went to Fotografiska, Stockholm’s museum of photography. A visit to the Millesgarden Art Museum and Sculpture Garden outside the city completed the artistic afternoon. At 6:00 pm, we sailed out of Stockholm Harbour with a scenic evening light illuminating dozens of pleasure and sailboats as we toasted the city from the sun deck.
