It was a tremendously full day, starting from early on. Before breakfast, there were already three groups ashore in Espumilla. A wide brown beach, with turtle tracks from the night before, diving blue-footed boobies and a rising sun over the island. Offshore kayakers paddled along rocky shores, hearing, then seeing the Galapagos fur seals as they moved down towards the water after their night of rest. Between breakfast and lunch, all was to do with the ocean – either a Zodiac ride along the shores of Buccaneer Bay, or in the water for an excellent deep-water snorkel. Afternoon was the entrancing Punto Egas trail; the coastal portion with plenty to see: fur seals, night herons, turtles, marine iguanas and oystercatchers.