Siglufjordur, 5/29/2025, National Geographic Explorer
Aboard the
National Geographic Explorer
Iceland
Today we got to experience some of the rich history and culture of Iceland with a visit to Siglufjordur, the herring capital of Iceland. Here in Siglufjordur, there’s a living museum depicting the days of the herring fisheries, complete with a performance by the Herring Girls who demonstrated the fine art of cutting and salting herring. After the demonstration, we visited three buildings, each displaying what life was like in the early 1900’s when herring ruled.
Steve Morello has had a long and colorful career in the natural history world. Born in New Jersey, he was lucky to be able to summer on the shores of Cape Cod. Whether it was exploring the tidal pools, snorkeling along the beach, or hiking in the dun...
The morning transit to Heimaey was spectacular. We passed several gannet colonies on the offshore stacks and watched hundreds gracefully soaring to and from their cliffside nests searching for fish. We soon encountered a feeding frenzy with nearly 100 gannets soaring above a school of fish and 7-9 orcas feeding within the school! The gannets dove into the water, reminiscent of a volley of arrows launched from the ramparts of a castle by medieval archers. The pod of orcas actively pursued fish in their own way. After lunch, we had a choice of a panoramic tour of Heimaey or hikes to the top of Eldfell, a potentially active volcano that last erupted in 1973. The tour viewed the puffin colony before visiting the famous Volcano Museum devoted to the 1973 eruption. The hikes attempted to climb to the peak of Eldfell, but unfortunately, the winds were so energetic that the guides wisely decided to turn back below the peak. Nevertheless, it was invigorating to be exposed to high winds on the side of a volcano that last erupted 52 years ago. The evening (and voyage) concluded with the traditional captain’s dinner and guest slideshow. Future National Geographic photographers perhaps?
The east coast of Iceland is one of the least visited areas of the island, but today we were lucky enough to visit the small village of Djúpivogur. Here, the community is focused on sustainability and an improved, slower pace of life. We went on different excursions to explore this remote area. Some of us went on a hike to the black sand beaches of Úlfseyjarsandur. This area has been growing over the last couple of centuries, as the ocean is bringing sand from the south which is deposited in the bay. This means that the area we were walking on didn’t exist a hundred years ago, and the rocky outcrops on the beach used to be islets surrounded by the sea. This is a unique location and it’s an example of Iceland’s dynamic landscape. Many birds nest in this area and we were able to observe some very curious harbor seals too. After lunch we had time to explore town and enjoy the tranquility and slow pace of this small community. We sailed away after another incredible day exploring Iceland and our next destination calling us, the Westland Islands.
This morning, we awoke to a misty morning in Borgarfjörður Eystri with the promise of puffins. And we were not disappointed! Immediately next to our Zodiac landing was a cliff of puffins only an arm’s length away. We returned to these cliffs throughout the day, between our other adventures. Many of us went on either a gentle or invigorating naturalist-led hike through lupine fields where we saw a variety of local birds and plants, and some of us even neared the foggy summit of Mt. Svartfell. Others explored the valley roads or backcountry trails of the area on e-bikes or enjoyed a tour of the remote hamlet of Bakkagerði. We refreshed ourselves at a local brewery and café, savoring our coffees, pints, and some exceptional cookies. Back on National Geographic Explorer for the evening, our bartender Klaus served his highly unusual but delicious creation: a cocktail (or mocktail) made from local rye bread. We rounded out the gorgeous day with a presentation from our historian Dorothee on the history and grammar of the Icelandic language.
