This evening, we found ourselves at 60 degrees south, crossing the internationally recognized geographic boundary into the Southern Ocean and the waters that define the Antarctic continent. Aside from lines on a nautical chart, this transition is marked by the presence of the largest, most traveled, and “longest lived” seabirds on the planet. These birds glide along the edges of the air masses that hover above the fringes of the Antarctic Circumpolar Current. Beyond the birds hangs a thick fog. Cold air above near-freezing Antarctic waters condenses as it meets warmer Atlantic and Pacific waters along the strong sea surface temperature gradient known as the Antarctic Convergence zone. We have spent the day orienting ourselves to the vessel and getting to know our expedition team and fellow travelers. We have also learned from expedition staff about how to make the most of our journey–from photography tips presented by onboard Certified Photo Instructors and a visiting National Geographic photographer to seabird spotting and identification guidance from naturalists. Embarking on the last voyage that National Geographic Resolution will take in 2022 is also cause for reflection on what the past year has meant for Antarctica and for each other. It is with great enthusiasm that we ring in the New Year with a Captain’s welcome party, complete with sea shanties and festive attire as we look forward to learning more together and appreciating the moments we will share on this epic adventure to explore the wildest place on Earth!
12/7/2023
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National Geographic Explorer
Drake Passage
We headed into the infamous Drake Passage last night after five days in Antarctica, so today's slightly later wakeup call and breakfast were a welcomed change of pace. A day at sea, however, does not mean fewer opportunities for wildlife spotting! Large numbers of seabirds flew all around the ship, such as southern giant petrels, Antarctic prions, and Cape petrels. We observed several light-mantled albatrosses, considered by some to be the most beautiful of that spectacular family of birds. In the early afternoon, several of the less commonly seen Antarctic petrels joined the fray, distinguishable from the artistically patterned Cape petrels (known also by their Spanish name 'pintado,' meaning painted) by their more orderly black and white plumage. While sea days spent heading back north from Antarctica provide time for reflection and processing of our experiences over the last few days, the lecture and enrichment program also continues. In the morning, Undersea Specialist Emmett Clarkin spoke about the ocean currents that keep Antarctica cold and insulate it from the rest of the planet, while Naturalist Elise Lockton gave a long-anticipated account of Sir Ernest Shackleton's famous Imperial Transantarctic Expedition. Finally, Naturalist Maria Intxaustegi presented some of her experiences working as a marine archaeologist. After a hearty dinner of Japanese okonomiyaki, we gathered once more in the lounge for a showing of the documentary Around Cape Horn, in which Captain Irving Johnson recalls his time sailing aboard the bark Peking from Europe around Cape Horn to Santiago. This film puts the historic significance of our spectacular ocean crossing into fitting perspective, especially as we hope to catch a glimpse of the famous lighthouse and monument at Cape Horn tomorrow morning.
