Tracy Arm, 6/20/2019, National Geographic Sea Bird
Aboard the
National Geographic Sea Bird
Alaska
Gleaming icebergs. Peaks, rounded and ragged. U-shaped valleys. Rushing cascades and melting snow and ice. Glaciers tumbling from the Stikine Icefield to the sea. White thunder. Harbor seals with pups. Under sunny skies, National Geographic Sea Bird and her expedition landing crafts transported guests through Tracy Arm Fjord to this post-Ice Age landscape.
Later on in the warm day, some guests and staff cooled off by jumping into the icy water. Various shipboard presentations kept us engaged between activities and admiration of the stunning scenery.
Lee grew up as a "Nature Girl" in the rural outskirts of New York City, where she developed and expressed her keen sense of biophilia. She expanded her passion for the outdoors when she ventured to the western side of the country and she currently o...
We arrived early to the town of Wrangell, excited to get the activities underway for our morning ashore. The excursion options included a jet boat tour up the Stikine River, a visit to the Shake’s house (traditional Long House), and investigating petroglyphs on a local beach. We returned to National Geographic Sea Bird for a delicious lunch and then went out for the afternoon activities. The options included a visit to the town museum and a hike up Mt. Dewey. We had lovely weather for our wonderful day of exploring.
The misty Alaska landscape was no stranger to us this morning as we woke to anchor in Thomas Bay. Our expedition today took us on tours around more of the Tongass National Forests’ splendor. We embarked on trails to see the falls of Cascade Creek, which were immensely powerful, casting misty spray across the forest of Western hemlock and Sitka spruce. Everything in the forest was incredibly dense, with life in all areas of the over and understory. In the afternoon, we explored Ruth Island, this time bushwacking along a tributary to make our way up to a beaver-dammed pond. The sight was fantastical, set among the forest with reed grass, toads, passerines, and even dense clumps of sundew. Guests adventured with large smiles on their faces as we felt the presence of wild Alaska.
Alaska can be soft green moss in the mist, slow, peaceful, and still. It can also be thunder, shrapnel, and sudden violence. At the head of the fjord, and the terminus of the Dawes Glacier, we watched as seracs came crashing down into the water, sending shards of ice hundreds of meters away. Gulls and terns danced along the surface, picking off small forage fish churned up in the chaos and outflow. Tidewater glaciers in Southeast Alaska are a surprising collection of life. As these ice rivers travel down toward the sea, they deliver a cold, sediment-rich pulse of nutrients, like iron and silica, that fuel phytoplankton blooms. These blooms form the base of the food chain and attract zooplankton and crustaceans, which in turn attract small fish, birds, and seals. The nutrient pulses from these glaciers fuel not only the abundance of life found within the fjords but also flow out to sea and support the entire marine ecosystem of Southeast Alaska. The calvings we see as spectacular displays of mother nature are far more complex and important to the overall ecosystem, perhaps making it more beautiful and breathtaking in the understanding.
