Scenery beyond words surrounded National Geographic Venture as we sailed to the far reaches of Tracy Arm-Fords Terror Wilderness. True wilderness is a rare and special opportunity to find yourself surrounded solely by trees, sky, granite cliffs, wildlife, and solitude. There are no roads or houses, no timber cutting or mining industries, no vehicles or man-made noises. Humans are only temporary visitors resulting in the highest degree of protection possible for federal land. We saw black bears right away this morning and large, blue chunks of ice drifting out of the fjord. Mountain goats climbed high up on the cliffs and harbor seals rested on the ice. We took Zodiacs on a twisting and turning cruise to the face of South Sawyer Glacier! Floating in an ice garden, listening to the snap, crackle, and pop of the growlers and bergy bits melting around us. We witnessed several calving events and talked about the quickly changing climate driving the rapid retreat of the many glaciers in Southeast Alaska.
9/9/2023
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National Geographic Quest
Ushk Bay
Morning fog swallowed the Southeast Alaskan wilderness. As we cruised into Ushk Bay, anticipation seized the vessel. This morning’s hikes and Zodiac cruises were to be our final operations of the trip; every last one of us was eager to be ensconced in the wonders of the Tongass once again. Following a delicious breakfast — prepared by head chef Paul Cotta and his dedicated team — we set out for shore. Through a light rain we cruised on Zodiacs toward our landing, scattering bald eagles and common mergansers that had congregated along the shore. Ushk Bay’s annual salmon run was nearing its conclusion —and we could smell it. The shoreline was littered with rotting carcasses of pink and chum salmon, many of which were picked apart by corvids, gulls, and bears. Whether or not any of these individuals survived long enough to spawn is a mystery, but there is one certainty amidst this carnage — their sacrifice is not in vain. Their carcasses will enrich this place, injecting the forest with nutrients from the sea. Our last afternoon was spent cruising toward our anchorage near Sitka. The final day of a Lindblad Expeditions cruise is always a hard day. We have all forged new bonds in the fires of wilderness. Every one of us has found ourselves challenged and rewarded, humbled and humored, inspired and inspirational throughout this week. Our new bonds will, thanks to modern technology, be preserved in photographs and videos. Many will be carried on through photos and emails, but this group will never be reconstituted. Though it’s hard to say goodbye, the impermanence of this troupe makes the experience all the more poignant. These adventurers will surely be missed.
