Unst and Lerwick, Shetlands, 6/29/2022, National Geographic Explorer
Aboard the
National Geographic Explorer
Europe & British Isles
This morning we arrived to Unst, which is about 200 miles west of Norway and the most northerly island of the Shetlands and all the British Isles. Dozens of Viking longhouses have been found here; we were able to see replicas of a Viking ship and a Viking longhouse. While many of us had a tour of Unst’s highlights, another group went birdwatching in Hermaness National Nature Reserve.
Berit grew up on the rocky shores of Marblehead, Massachusetts, where she explored the marine environment through changing tides and seasons, nurturing a love of natural history and marine biology.
The natural harbor of Scapa Flow has been the site of historical importance that far outweighs the size of these sleepy little islands in the North Sea. With the closing of WWI, the German High Seas fleet was interred by the British Navy in Scapa Flow and rather than allow their captured ships to be used by their enemies, the German Navy decided to purposefully sink their cruisers, battleships, and other military vessels. What has been left is an incredible number of large shipwrecks which are fairly easy to access. While guests visited the museum of Scapa Flow to learn more about this strategically important embayment and its storied history, the undersea team went for dives to explore the wrecks up close. After being sunk in 1919, the fleet became one of the largest artificial reefs in all of Europe and are a magnet for marine life. The wrecks are covered in soft corals called dead man’s fingers and are home to countless invertebrates, like sea slugs and even huge lobsters. The wrecks are a testament to the scale of military engineering and the power of natural regeneration.
We spent the morning cruising and enjoyed a presentation from our field staff in addition to spectacular views of the rugged Shetland coast and incredible birdwatching. We were lucky enough to cruise by the Isle of Noss. The dramatic cliffs were teeming with gannets while skuas and fulmars flew by. From there, we docked in Lerwick on mainland Shetland and went ashore for a variety of excursions. These included a visit to Sumburgh Head Lighthouse and hikes to admire the landscape. Another highlight was Jarlshof, a spectacular archaeological site featuring structures from various time periods that date back over four thousand years. Some guests opted to stay in town for a walking tour of Lerwick. After dinner on board, we were treated to a performance from local musicians Maurice Henderson and Friends. Tonight, we continue our journey with our sights set on the Orkney Islands tomorrow.
In the morning, we visited the city of Aberdeen, known as, “the granite city; grey, grim and dour.” After breakfast, we set off on different excursions. Most of us headed for either Crathes Castle with its famous garden or Drum Castle. Local guides took us around enthusiastically, and we learned about the area’s rich history and how those histories shaped the country. There was an opportunity to learn more about farming in the Grampian region with a visit to a farm that raises sheep and Highland cattle. We were all taken by the shaggy-looking cattle with their long fringes and impressive horns. Some of us even took an opportunity to pet the calves! Finally, there was a city tour, which included the fishing cottages in the old harbor and the impressive Marischal College. As we sailed away from the city, we were treated to marvelous sightings of bottlenose dolphins. In the afternoon, we met the expedition staff and attended a presentation on smartphone photography. To finish the day, we attended Captain’s Welcome Cocktails.
