Set sail aboard the majestic four-masted Sea Cloud on a journey into the culture, history, and cuisine of Sicily and Malta. Step into the past among cities and temples left behind by the Romans, Greeks, Carthaginians, and prehistoric peoples—to name just a few. From Taormina to Gozo, wander through charming towns where modern-day life thrives amid glorious vestiges of ancient civilizations, and challenge your conceptions of Italian cuisine as you taste Sicily’s take on pizza, pastries, and wine. We’ll visit no fewer than four UNESCO World Heritage sites: Agrigento, Siracusa, the Aeolian Islands, Malta’s megalithic temples, and we’ll have views of a fifth—Mount Etna. Savor Sea Cloud’s elegant comfort during afternoons under billowing sails, and enjoy an incomparable Mediterranean adventure that harkens back to the golden age of ship travel.
Sail the shimmering waters of the Mediterranean, Tyrrhenian, and Ionian Seas
Explore enchanting piazzas and winding alleyways of picturesque towns from Lipari to Taormina and Ortigia
Visit an array of UNESCO World Heritage sites, from Greco-Roman ruins in Siracusa and Agrigento to the ancient temples of Ġgantija
Experience Sicily’s unique cuisine at a wine tasting in Marsala, at Erice’s renowned Pasticceria Maria Grammatico, and at a private lunch in a historic castle near Taormina
Savor ample time at sea sailing aboard Sea Cloud, the world’s most beautiful tall ship
Explore Naples & Pompeii on a 3-day pre-voyage extension
See less
highlights
Duration
12 Days
NOTE: For expeditions departing April 2024 onward, Day 1 of our itineraries will no longer reflect “departure from the U.S.” and will reflect “arrival to the city” where your expedition begins. Durations of expeditions will remain unchanged. More details.
NOTE: For expeditions departing April 2024 onward, Day 1 of our itineraries will no longer reflect “departure from the U.S.” and will reflect “arrival to the city” where your expedition begins. Durations of expeditions will remain unchanged. More details.
Share Sicily and Malta Luxury Cruise | Mediterranean Adventure Travel | Lindblad Expeditions
Mediterranean aboard Sea Cloud
Day By Day
Expeditions aboard Sea Cloud are crafted to offer you a panoramic experience of Sicily and Malta. Within hours of arriving, you’ll experience an abundance of history and culture, and fall in love with life under white sails. Our historian, naturalist/certified photo instructor, and local guides ensure you gain an insider’s perspective and insight into the fascinating places we visit. Scenic drives, hikes on hilly terrain, market visits, cruises along idyllic shores, and free time to walk in charming seaside villages are the ways you’ll pass the time. Flexibility is a hallmark of our expedition style.
NOTE: For expeditions departing April 2024 onward, Day 1 of our itineraries will no longer reflect “departure from the U.S.” and will reflect “arrival to the city” where your expedition begins. Durations of expeditions will remain unchanged. More details.
Day 1-2
U.S. / Naples, Italy / Embark
Fly overnight and arrive in Naples. Board the legendary Sea Cloud and cast off from Naples’ harbor. We’ll gather for a welcome cocktail as we pass the island of Capri’s rugged coast and enter the Tyrrhenian Sea. (Day 2: D)
Day 3
At Sea
Join the expedition leader for a play-by-play description of the crew in the rigging and the action of the setting of square sails, stay sails, and jibs as Sea Cloud shows her full glory. Bask in the comfort and intrigue of this legendary and historic square-rigger—enjoy delicious meals, complimentary drinks, and talks by the expedition staff as we sail south toward Sicily. (B,L,D)
Day 4
Erice & Marsala / At Sea
After Sea Cloud docks in Trapani this morning, we depart on an excursion up nearby Mount Erice to the intriguing medieval town of Erice. Perched 750 meters above Sicily’s western coast, the panoramic views from the walled town are spectacular. Explore Erice with local guides and take time to wander on your own. Perhaps stop in at the renowned Pasticceria Maria Grammatico, or one of the many other local favorites, before more exploration in the town of Marsala. Famous for its fortified wines, this port city also houses an excellent museum devoted to its Punic (Carthaginian) history, as well as an excavated Punic warship and a recently opened excavated Roman merchant vessel. We finish with a visit and tasting at Marsala’s most historic winery, Casa Florio, before returning to Sea Cloud in Trapani. Sail overnight to Porto Empedocle for Agrigento. (B,L,D)
Day 5
At Sea / Agrigento
Rise this morning in hopes of steady winds and watch the crew set sail as you cruise along Sicily’s southern shore. Our next call is devoted to Agrigento’s Valley of the Temples, a UNESCO World Heritage Site that is a collection of some of antiquity’s most magnificent Greco-Roman temples. Founded by the Greeks in the 6th century B.C., the site served as a prominent city in Magna Graecia before eventually changing hands between the Carthaginians, Romans, Byzantines, Arabs, and Normans. Explore the valley’s grand row of Doric temples devoted to the likes of Zeus and Heracles. We return to Sea Cloud in Porto Empedocle and cast off for Malta. (B,L,D)
Day 6
Valletta, Malta
At sunrise, we enter one of the finest harbors of the Mediterranean: Valletta, Malta’s capital city, surrounded by daunting limestone fortifications that date back to the 16th century. You’ll want to be on deck with your camera as we make our final approach beneath the city’s bastions, walls, and towers. Malta’s glorious waterfront settings, its views, the historic cities and towns, and amazing buildings combine to make a visit here a wonderful experience. We spend the morning touring the city, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Drive to the Upper Barracca Gardens, located on the highest point of the 16th-century walls that the Knights of Saint John built to protect their city. Take in the remarkable views of the Grand Harbor, Fort Ricasoli, and the Three Cities—Birgu, Senglea, and Bormla. Continuing through Valletta’s historic streets you’ll tour St John’s Co-Cathedral, complete with elaborate inlaid marble tombstones and monumental artwork. Then we visit Malta’s old capital, Mdina, a walled medieval city dating from the Norman and Baroque periods, that has been inhabited for thousands of years. Walk through the city's streets and enjoy the fantastic view from the bastions. Marvel at the impressive Mdina Cathedral and then a short drive to the Rotunda of Mosta, the fourth-largest unsupported dome in the world. During World War II, a bomb pierced the dome and landed, unexploded, in the church. Return to Sea Cloud docked in Valletta where you can wander on your own after dinner. (B,L,D)
Day 7
Gozo, Malta / At Sea
This morning we visit Malta’s “second island,” Gozo, with our focus on the ancient megalithic temples of Ġgantija, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Older than both the Pyramids of Giza and Stonehenge, the giant structures of Ġgantija were built by civilizations that thrived here more than 5,000 years ago. We’ll also visit the artfully restored medieval windmill of Ta Kola—one of the many structures built by the Order of the Knights of Malta, who ruled the Maltese islands for centuries—before returning to Sea Cloud and an afternoon cruising back to Sicily, with hopes of sailing in the afternoon winds. (B,L,D)
Day 8
Siracusa, Italy
Wake this morning to Siracusa, a city that once rivaled Athens in cultural and economic wealth. We’ll explore the archaeological park, which showcases one of the world’s largest theaters of antiquity, a 15,000-seat arena hewn from bedrock, which is still in use today. We’ll also visit the nearby limestone quarry, the cave of “Dionysus’ Ear,” and the Roman amphitheater before returning to Sea Cloud for lunch. This afternoon, venture to the enchanting island town of Ortygia to discover its numerous little piazzas and twisting alleys. But the main feature is the Duomo, or Cathedral, which was built from the ruins of Sicily’s ancient Temple of Athena. The history of Sicily can be told in the walls of this incredible construction. (B,L,D)
Day 9
Strait of Messina / Taormina
We anchor off the port of Giardini Naxos and drive up to the intoxicatingly beautiful town of Taormina, which spills across the slopes at the foot of Mount Etna, dominating to the south. The stunning medieval town boasts the now-fashionable walk on the pedestrian Corso Umberto, lined with exquisite buildings, and ends at the Greco-Roman Theater. This unforgettable theater was built right into the cliffside, overlooking the vast sea below, in the 3rd century B.C. From Taormina, we continue to the Castello degli Schiavi, a phenomenal 18th-century privately-owned villa, for a very special private lunch. Meet members of the family that still owns the villa and explore the extensive buildings and grounds that served as the setting for many scenes in The Godfather. We then return to Sea Cloud, docked in the port of Messina. Enjoy dinner on deck as our vessel follows the wake of Odysseus through the narrow Strait of Messina, the bustling waterway that separates Sicily from the boot of Italy. It’s the mythical location of Homer’s monsters Scylla and Charybdis—the rock and the hard place whirlpools through which Odysseus had to sail. (B,L,D)
Day 10
Lipari / Stromboli
The Aeolian Islands are not only famous for the winds of the god Aeolus, but also for some of the most well-known classical volcanoes. We’ll sail in the morning with the islands of Vulcano and Stromboli in view, anchoring for the afternoon at Lipari. Here we’ll go ashore for a scenic drive around the perimeter of the island, with fantastic views of the other Aeolian volcanoes, before returning to the main town. We visit the small but surprising archaeological museum that has an extensive collection of Neolithic artifacts made from the local obsidian, which provided the foundation of the island’s prosperity during the Greco-Roman era. This evening, we’ll have dinner on deck as Sea Cloud cruises the 25 miles to Stromboli—and with a little luck, we’ll see some of the pyrotechnics of this active volcano, a perfect way to end such an adventurous voyage. (B,L,D)
Day 11
At Sea
After such an action-packed voyage, we take a full day for sailing, reflection, and relaxation. Join our expedition staff for talks on the Lido Deck, as the captain takes advantage of the prevailing wind for optimal sailing. Aboard Sea Cloud there will be time to catch up on journals, photo reviews, questions, sample a collection of Sicilian wines, and to simply enjoy the thrill of an extended sail on this historic square-rigged tall ship. This evening, we’ll celebrate our voyage with the Captain’s farewell cocktail party and dinner at sunset. (B,L,D)
Day 12
Naples / Disembark / U.S.
Disembark after breakfast and transfer to the airport for your flight home. (B)
Alternative Route
Expeditions aboard Sea Cloud are crafted to offer you a panoramic experience of Sicily and Malta. Within hours of arriving, you’ll experience an abundance of history and culture, and fall in love with life under white sails. Our historian, naturalist/certified photo instructor, and local guides ensure you gain an insider’s perspective and insight into the fascinating places we visit. Scenic drives, hikes on hilly terrain, market visits, cruises along idyllic shores, and free time to walk in charming seaside villages are the ways you’ll pass the time. Flexibility is a hallmark of our expedition style.
Embark
Disembark
Day 1
Naples, Italy / Embark
Arrive in Naples and transfer from the airport to the ship in the afternoon. Embark the legendary Sea Cloud and cast off from Naples’ harbor. We’ll gather for a welcome cocktail as we pass the island of Capri’s rugged coast and enter the Tyrrhenian Sea. (D)
Day 2
At Sea
Join the expedition leader for a play-by-play description of the crew in the rigging and the action of the setting of square sails, stay sails, and jibs as Sea Cloud shows her full glory. Bask in the comfort and intrigue of this legendary and historic square-rigger—enjoy delicious meals, complimentary drinks, and talks by the expedition staff as we sail south toward Sicily. (B,L,D)
Day 3
Erice & Marsala/At Sea
After Sea Cloud docks in Trapani this morning, we depart on an excursion up nearby Mount Erice to the intriguing medieval town of Erice. Perched 750 meters above Sicily’s western coast, the panoramic views from the walled town are spectacular. Explore Erice with local guides and take time to wander on your own. Perhaps stop in at the renowned Pasticceria Maria Grammatico, or one of the many other local favorites, before more exploration in the town of Marsala. Famous for its fortified wines, this port city also houses an excellent museum devoted to its Punic (Carthaginian) history, as well as an excavated Punic warship and a recently opened excavated Roman merchant vessel. We finish with a visit and tasting at Marsala’s most historic winery, Casa Florio, before returning to Sea Cloud in Trapani. Sail overnight to Porto Empedocle for Agrigento. (B,L,D)
Day 4
At Sea/Agrigento
Rise this morning in hopes of steady winds and watch the crew set sail as you cruise along Sicily’s southern shore. Our next call is devoted to Agrigento’s Valley of the Temples, a UNESCO World Heritage Site that is a collection of some of antiquity’s most magnificent Greco-Roman temples. Founded by the Greeks in the 6th century B.C., the site served as a prominent city in Magna Graecia before eventually changing hands between the Carthaginians, Romans, Byzantines, Arabs, and Normans. Explore the valley’s grand row of Doric temples devoted to the likes of Zeus and Heracles. We return to Sea Cloud in Porto Empedocle and cast off for Malta. (B,L,D)
Day 5
Valletta, Malta
At sunrise, we enter one of the finest harbors of the Mediterranean: Valletta, Malta’s capital city, surrounded by daunting limestone fortifications that date back to the 16th century. You’ll want to be on deck with your camera as we make our final approach beneath the city’s bastions, walls, and towers. Malta’s glorious waterfront settings, its views, the historic cities and towns, and amazing buildings combine to make a visit here a wonderful experience. We spend the morning touring the city, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Drive to the Upper Barracca Gardens, located on the highest point of the 16th-century walls that the Knights of Saint John built to protect their city. Take in the remarkable views of the Grand Harbor, Fort Ricasoli, and the Three Cities—Birgu, Senglea, and Bormla. Continuing through Valletta’s historic streets you’ll tour St John’s Co-Cathedral, complete with elaborate inlaid marble tombstones and monumental artwork. Then we visit Malta’s old capital, Mdina, a walled medieval city dating from the Norman and Baroque periods, that has been inhabited for thousands of years. Walk through the city's streets and enjoy the fantastic view from the bastions. Marvel at the impressive Mdina Cathedral and then a short drive to the Rotunda of Mosta, the fourth-largest unsupported dome in the world. During World War II, a bomb pierced the dome and landed, unexploded, in the church. Return to Sea Cloud docked in Valletta where you can wander on your own after dinner. (B,L,D)
Day 6
Gozo, Malta/At Sea
This morning we visit Malta’s “second island,” Gozo, with our focus on the ancient megalithic temples of Ġgantija, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Older than both the Pyramids of Giza and Stonehenge, the giant structures of Ġgantija were built by civilizations that thrived here more than 5,000 years ago. We’ll also visit the artfully restored medieval windmill of Ta Kola—one of the many structures built by the Order of the Knights of Malta, who ruled the Maltese islands for centuries—before returning to Sea Cloud and an afternoon cruising back to Sicily, with hopes of sailing in the afternoon winds. (B,L,D)
Day 7
Siracusa, Italy
Wake this morning to Siracusa, a city that once rivaled Athens in cultural and economic wealth. We’ll explore the archaeological park, which showcases one of the world’s largest theaters of antiquity, a 15,000-seat arena hewn from bedrock, which is still in use today. We’ll also visit the nearby limestone quarry, the cave of “Dionysus’ Ear,” and the Roman amphitheater before returning to Sea Cloud for lunch. This afternoon, venture to the enchanting island town of Ortygia to discover its numerous little piazzas and twisting alleys. But the main feature is the Duomo, or Cathedral, which was built from the ruins of Sicily’s ancient Temple of Athena. The history of Sicily can be told in the walls of this incredible construction. (B,L,D)
Day 8
Strait of Messina/Taormina
We anchor off the port of Giardini Naxos and drive up to the intoxicatingly beautiful town of Taormina, which spills across the slopes at the foot of Mount Etna, dominating to the south. The stunning medieval town boasts the now-fashionable walk on the pedestrian Corso Umberto, lined with exquisite buildings, and ends at the Greco-Roman Theater. This unforgettable theater was built right into the cliffside, overlooking the vast sea below, in the 3rd century B.C. From Taormina, we continue to the Castello degli Schiavi, a phenomenal 18th-century privately-owned villa, for a very special private lunch. Meet members of the family that still owns the villa and explore the extensive buildings and grounds that served as the setting for many scenes in The Godfather. We then return to Sea Cloud, docked in the port of Messina. Enjoy dinner on deck as our vessel follows the wake of Odysseus through the narrow Strait of Messina, the bustling waterway that separates Sicily from the boot of Italy. It’s the mythical location of Homer’s monsters Scylla and Charybdis—the rock and the hard place whirlpools through which Odysseus had to sail. (B,L,D)
Day 9
Lipari/Stromboli
The Aeolian Islands are not only famous for the winds of the god Aeolus, but also for some of the most well-known classical volcanoes. We’ll sail in the morning with the islands of Vulcano and Stromboli in view, anchoring for the afternoon at Lipari. Here we’ll go ashore for a scenic drive around the perimeter of the island, with fantastic views of the other Aeolian volcanoes, before returning to the main town. We visit the small but surprising archaeological museum that has an extensive collection of Neolithic artifacts made from the local obsidian, which provided the foundation of the island’s prosperity during the Greco-Roman era. This evening, we’ll have dinner on deck as Sea Cloud cruises the 25 miles to Stromboli—and with a little luck, we’ll see some of the pyrotechnics of this active volcano, a perfect way to end such an adventurous voyage. (B,L,D)
Day 10
At Sea
After such an action-packed voyage, we take a full day for sailing, reflection, and relaxation. Join our expedition staff for talks on the Lido Deck, as the captain takes advantage of the prevailing wind for optimal sailing. Aboard Sea Cloud there will be time to catch up on journals, photo reviews, questions, sample a collection of Sicilian wines, and to simply enjoy the thrill of an extended sail on this historic square-rigged tall ship. This evening, we’ll celebrate our voyage with the Captain’s farewell cocktail party and dinner at sunset. (B,L,D)
Day 11
Naples / Disembark
Disembark this morning after breakfast and transfer to the airport for your flight home. (B)
Alternative Route
Expeditions aboard Sea Cloud are crafted to offer you a panoramic experience of Sicily and Malta. Within hours of arriving, you’ll experience an abundance of history and culture, and fall in love with life under white sails. Our historian, naturalist/certified photo instructor, and local guides ensure you gain an insider’s perspective and insight into the fascinating places we visit. Scenic drives, hikes on hilly terrain, market visits, cruises along idyllic shores, and free time to walk in charming seaside villages are the ways you’ll pass the time. Flexibility is a hallmark of our expedition style.
Certain offers may be combinable, up to two savings opportunities, except where noted otherwise. For example, travel with a group of 8 or more on back-to-back expeditions, and take advantage of both savings.
TRAVELING AS A GROUP
Special Offers
Save 5% when traveling as a group of 8 or more people. Take advantage of these great savings, while enjoying traveling with your friends and family. This savings is applicable to voyage fares only, and is not valid on extensions or airfare. Deposit, final payments, and cancellation policies for group travel vary from our regular policies.
BRINGING THE KIDS
Special Offers
We believe sharing an expedition with your kids or grandkids is a life-enhancing experience. So take $500 off for each child under the age of 18.
BACK-TO-BACK SAVINGS
Special Offers
Save 10% on any consecutive journeys taken on board one of our expedition ships. This savings is applicable on voyage fares only, and are not valid on extensions or airfare.
FREE BAR TAB AND CREW TIPS INCLUDED
Special Offers
Travel aboard any Sea Cloud departure and we will cover your bar tab and all tips for the crew.
On our three-day pre-voyage extension, we’ll show you a great deal of Naples’s essence. You’ll see the historic center, a World Heritage Site, with one astonishing work of art and architecture after another. You’ll have a panoramic view from atop a hill overlooking the extraordinarily lively city and the Bay of Naples. Then, visit Pompeii, abruptly destroyed by Vesuvius in A.D. 79, and witness its extraordinarily well-preserved homes. Deepen your understanding of the events that unfolded in the ancient city with a guided tour of the National Archaeological Museum in Naples, where you’ll see many of the artifacts found in Pompeii. Among the treasures the museum showcases are the exquisite sculptures of the Farnese Marbles collection.
Itself a piece of history, you’ll stay at the Grand Hotel Vesuvio along the waterfront, where Neapolitans from all walks of life come to stroll and enjoy themselves, and just steps from Castel dell’Ovo where, legends says, Virgil places a magic egg into the foundation. We hope you’ll join us.
Our last full day together on Sea Cloud was spent cruising the serene blue waters of the Tyrrhenian Sea. We had brief visits from some charismatic breaching dolphins. While the sun was blazing and the air was humid, our expedition leader and captain decided this weather begged for a cool down. Captain Svendsen and Bay Watch patrol Simon Kwinta guided guests off the gangway ladder into the refreshing saltwater pool created for them just off the portside of Sea Cloud . It was a perfect day of relaxation in between packing and prepping for the day of travel to follow. Our time together on board closed with a hazy pastel sunset on the Amalfi coastline while we navigated our way back to Naples.
We arrived in the archipelago of the Aeolian Isles about 6:00 a.m. The sun was just coming up over these volcanic, craggy mountains. In Homer’s Odyssey, he refers to these isles as the “Isles of the Wind.” They can be very windy, but today we were lucky as there was virtually no wind, the sea was flat with hardly a ripple. These rather isolated and barren windswept islands have become very popular in the past twenty years with the “jet set.” Some of you may remember the wonderfully charming film Il Postino about the exile in these islands of the Chilean poet Pablo Neruda. Traditionally, the islanders made a living from the sea as fishermen. Today, while they still fish, tourism has helped considerably. Although they appear far off the beaten path to us in antiquity, they were very busy places and traded their goods, particularly obsidian (volcanic glass) all over the Mediterranean. We saw evidence of this trade as far southeast as the Stone Age temples “Ggintjia” on the island of Gozo in the Malta archipelago. I gave an informative, illustrated talk on the geology of the Mediterranean this morning. After the talk, at 10:30 A.M., we had a swim in these fabulous waters. The water was crystal clear, warm, and the high salt content made it virtually unnecessary to move. You just bobbed up and down. I didn’t count how many were in the water, but it appeared most of us took advantage of this chance to swim right off Sea Cloud . The swim was restorative and perfect. After lunch, we visited the largest island in the archipelago, the isle of Lipari. The sun was warm as we boarded Zodiacs and the tender for the short ride to the shore. There we boarded our coaches for the scenic drive around this very mountainous island of Lipari. Capers seem to thrive here, and I noticed many growing from crevices in the rock walls. The scenery was very dramatic, and we could see the other adjoining islands quite easily. The local museum holds a great surprise, as it has what I believe may be the greatest concentration of ancient Greek ceramics in any museum. Of course, I use the word “surprise” because we moderns tend to see Lipari now as an isolated and hard to reach place, but in antiquity, there was a lively exchange of goods from across the Mediterranean. The pottery collection is superb. Both red and black figure pots were displayed in all their varying shapes. Imagine – some of these vessels were in mint condition, and they are 2500 years old. While the Greeks used these pots for practical purposes, they invariably decorated them with stories from their history and mythology. One can see the feats of Hercules, Zeus, and the other Olympic Gods, stories from the Iliad and the Odyssey, and even inscriptions on the pots. The symmetry of the pots denotes bespoke craftspeople of great ability. We made a short visit to the church and viewed some of the ancient ruins. The last Zodiac back to Sea Cloud was at 6:00 and it seemed some people were waiting until the last call. I cannot blame them as it is an enchanting place. Dinner was as spectacular as always. I am always amazed at the high quality of the food given that it is prepared in a small galley and has to be brought up at least three decks when we eat on the Lido. The chefs and the service staff are incomparable. After dinner, we all waited along the starboard and bow for the volcano Stromboli to come to life. It did not disappoint and exploded at least three times. Flames shot up high above the crater, and as it was quite dark, it was spectacular.
Sea Cloud set the hook in calm, serene blue waters just off the coast of Giardini Naxos this morning. The ship’s crew organized our shuttle arrangements of a single tender and Zodiac to take us to shore. Our rides to land were accompanied by silky-smooth seas and glittering reflections from the clear bright sky above. Taormina local guides greeted us at the dock where we boarded two coach buses for a brief and scenic drive to Taormina. Curious eyes gazed out the windows, taking in spectacular views of Mt. Etna in the distance clouded by smoke at its peak. We wandered along the luscious, turquoise blue coastline and weaved through the narrow streets of Sicily that were intertwined with flowers, bursting with vibrant pinks and purples as well. Eager to explore and begin our day, we followed our guide into the beautiful architectural mix of buildings that line Taormina’s main pedestrian (and motor vehicle) street, Corso Umberto I. Fashion, food, and art caught the attention of everyone. Store windows included items patterned with Taormina culture—for example, prickly pear cactus, the Sicilian flag symbol, lemons, and pinecones. These items are commonly seen throughout the streets in various forms of art. Pinecone statues were especially noted outside some buildings, as our guide told us they are a Sicilian “symbol of wellness.” Beyond the bustling street of Corso Umberto I was the grand theatre—the Teatro Antico di Taormina, or the Ancient Theatre of Taormina. The amphitheater boasts breathtaking views of Mt. Etna and the Bay of Naxos. Guests took photos of ruins, explored Roman history, and suggested we come back for a concert experience of our own. After the tour, there was some time for supporting local businesses and vendors in Taormina, and soon after we made it to our lunch destination— Castello degli Schiavi. As we began to enter the courtyard of Castello degli Schiavi, all of us sensed something familiar about the place, something almost cinematic— The Godfather ! Our lunch was in fact hosted on site of the 18th century villa used for several scenes in The Godfather ! How cool is that?! Champagne and hors d’oeuvres were enjoyed in the legendary courtyard with traditional Italian accordion, flute, and tambourine musicians playing alongside. Then we were brought inside a stone building to a small watch party, where we viewed some scenes from The Godfather that were shot onsite. After a brief tour of artifacts and the intricate history of Castello degli Schiavi, our traditional four-course Italian meal awaited us in a medieval-esque cellar. Wine was sipped, food was eaten, and more wine was sipped as we filled ourselves full of “chef’s kiss” Italia cuisine. Siesta time was much needed for all of us afterwards. Thankfully, our bus venture back to Sea Cloud was an hour’s drive to Messina, where the ship had relocated to a dock for our convenience. We cast off the dock and began our golden hour passage through the legendary Straits of Messina. Our sendoff wouldn’t have been complete without the special accompaniment of a large pod of dolphins. We gathered on the outside decks to inhale the beauty of nature while we took in our last sights of Sicily. While we all sat and enjoyed more food at dinner, the sun began to set in the background. As it sank on the bright orange horizon line, it emitted a subtle green flash, as if signaling to us that the daylit portion of our fabulous time ashore was ending. However, the night was a welcome invitation for sea shanties. The crew led us in numerous shanties—even getting all of us to join in at one point or another. The day was packed with new experiences and special moments that brought us closer together. Although we’re nearing the end of this special voyage, we know that we come nowhere near ending the friendships created during our memorable adventures together.
The small island of Gozo came into view at 5:30 a.m. as the sun rose over the island’s cliffs. This is the second largest island in the Malta archipelago. In comparison to the main island of Malta, it is far less busy and far more fertile, raising tomatoes and potatoes for export. Sea Cloud must anchor outside the harbor of Gozo, as the ship is too large for the small harbor. We boarded Zodiacs for our ride to the island. Once ashore, we got on our coaches for a 20-minute ride to visit a traditional Maltese windmill and the Ggantija Temple complex. Our first stop was the windmill of Giuseppe Grech. The owner was born, lived, and died in this mill. Bread was a staple of life and before there were commercial bakeries, farmers brought their grain to be milled here. The ground floor was for his tools and for the animals. Mr. Grech’s home on the second floor is now a museum, illustrating life in the 20th century for peasants. We climbed to the top and saw the massive millstones. Our next stop was just a few hundred-meter walk – the Ggantija Temple complex. This extraordinary site contains two temple complexes. The earliest, the South Temple, dates from 3600 BCE and is thus older than the pyramids of Egypt and Stonehenge. The North Temple, directly adjacent, dates from approximately 3000 BCE. The walls of these temples originally rose almost 25’, and they were plastered and painted with red ochre pigment imported from Sicily. The massive blocks that make up the walls are chiefly cut from the softer Coralline limestone. Finer work, such as the passage walls and the altars, are made from the softer Globigerina limestone. All this cutting was done with stone tools, including the volcanic glass obsidian that was imported from as far away as Pantelleria and Lipari, some three hundred kilometers north. The temple complexes are apsidal in shape, containing five apses. Archeologist Daniel Clark estimated that it took the equivalent of 15,529-man days to complete the South Temple complex. Estimates of population suggest that no more than 300 men were working on the project at any one time, so they took years to build. The temples were likely roofed with wooden timbers and covered with rushes and clay. There is no conclusive evidence of a priestly class, but it is assumed there was a social hierarchy. The other curious fact is that there is no evidence for a slow evolution of temple building. This was the very end of the Neolithic Period. With the single exception of Stonehenge, Neolithic peoples did not typically dress (that is, finish with tools) the stone surfaces, and thus the dressed stones of these temples are the first in recorded history. The sculptures that were found often illustrate female figures, which perhaps indicate some fertility goddess. Human skeletons were found buried in the typical crouched position and sprinkled with red ochre. They were interred with statues and other implements, but there is no indication of special orientation. Life expectancy would have been mid-30s. Infant mortality was likely 50% or higher, and women died in childbirth. There is no hint of warfare in this earlier period, but decline did set in. It appears there was a sudden collapse around 2500 BCE, but there is no evidence that warfare was the cause. Disease may have played a part, as did deforestation and the exploitation of land for increased food for a growing economy. In short, the precise reasons why this Neolithic temple culture disappeared are unknown. After lunch, our captain gave an informative discussion as the sails were raised at 2:00 p.m. At 3:15, Tom Heffernan gave a talk on the Fourth Crusade and its implications for the survival of the Eastern Roman Greek Empire. Expedition leader Paula gave a very informative talk on the astonishing history of Sea Cloud . After that, we were all treated to champagne and caviar and a visit to the original state rooms. Tomorrow, we move to Syracuse, Sicily.
The entrance to the great harbor in Malta is one of the grandest entrances of any harbor in the Mediterranean. We were all on the monkey deck by 6:00 a.m. as we motored into the grand harbor. The honey-colored limestone rock raises up from the sea; the great walls of Valletta grow organically out of the natural limestone. It is simply breathtaking. The fortifications were started in the 1550s by the Grand Master of the Order Jean Valletta after whom the capital city of Malta is named. We approached the great, massive Fort St. Elmo. The walls are laid out in a star shape for better defense. We began our tour of Valletta from the newly designed center, where the gorgeous new Parliament building sits. The building was designed by Renzo Piano. Previously, this was a rather ugly and busy bus depot. We walked down the street filled with merchants. We passed a statue of Jean Valletta, the French noble who was also elected General of the Knights of St. John in 1557. The Order of Knights of St. John Hospitaller were divided into “languages,” and many countries (hence “languages”) contributed their nationals to the order. The knights lived monastic, priestly lives in “auberges,” or inns. Although they began as an order of nurses helping the wounded Christians trying to retake the Holy Land from the Muslims, they evolved into a fighting order of Christian nurse knights – a contradiction that is hard for moderns to understand. Our visit to the sumptuous Co-Cathedral of St. John was incredible. The floor is covered with 400 distinctive, colored marble tombstones, providing the names of the men interred with brief biographies written in Latin. If there is a square inch of this cathedral that is not either gilded or covered in jewels, I didn’t see it. Our next stop was to view the masterpieces of the great Renaissance Italian artist Caravaggio. The co-cathedral owns two of his most famous works, “The Beheading of St. John the Baptist” and “St. Jerome in his cell.” They are simply amongst the greatest works of the 17th century. We settled in for some free time and enjoyed café life in this active town. After a buffet lunch on Sea Cloud , we visited the medieval city of Mdina – an architectural gem. The elaborate bronze door knockers were spectacular, as were the narrow alleys and lanes. We returned to the ship for a lovely dinner on the lido deck. Paula, our Expedition Leader, treated us all to the local liqueur made from the prickly pear cactus – a local specialty. I led a night photographic tour, focusing on the grand harbor from the overlook of the gardens. Then off to bed and tomorrow, Gozo.
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