Exploring the British Columbian Archipelago’s Most Remote Sacred Site By Marc Cappelletti I am walking in the footsteps of chiefs and carvers, warriors and weavers, shamans and slaves; people as connected to the land as the very trees from which they once made their homes. The ground is soft. It is sacred. And it lies at the edge of the world—Haida Gwaii, British Columbia. We are at the ancient village of SGang Gwaay Llnagaay, formerly known as Nan sdins or Ninstints, on the eastern edge of SGang Gwaay (Anthony Island).
When we, as Canadians, talk about our whole country, we say “from coast to coast to coast.” The three coasts feel very different underfoot. In the west, deep moss makes a trail that feels like walking over sofa cushions; in the east, long grasses swish and slap against your boots; and up north rocks and rivulets form tiled patterns over the permafrost. It was the west coast that convinced me to start working at sea.
Newfoundland’s Gros Morne National Park is one of the few places where you can walk on the Earth’s mantle and also cruise glacially carved freshwater fjords.
In this episode of Expedition Spotlight, join Cultural Specialist Susan Flanagan as she reveals what discoveries are in store on our Canadian Maritimes and Newfoundland expedition.
We started the day with a hike at a beautiful oasis of green poison apple trees, which happens to be the home of the Galapagos land iguanas. During the outing we also found many of the Alcedo volcano species of giant tortoise — it was quite an amazing experience to be surrounded by these giants among the wilderness! After lunch we navigated to Tagus Cove for kayaking and snorkeling along the coast; we enjoyed sightings of Galapagos penguins, flightless cormorants, and Galapagos sea lions resting near the shore. We finished our day hiking a trail around Darwin Crater Lake. Another perfect day in this natural paradise!
This morning, we awoke to light, shifting fog and scattered sea ice. Our destination, Torellneset, lies in the distance, its stark shores striped with snow drifts. A few walruses patrolled the shore for a potential haul out, their efforts thwarted by a still-prominent ice ledge. Upon arrival, we walked over seabed raised through rebound into gravel terraces and scattered with a few resilient plant beds and a lone whale skeleton. It’s a desolate place, but a startlingly beautiful one. In the afternoon, we ventured into sea ice in search of polar bears, and it was not long before we found one. We observed at a respectable distance before quietly departing, retreating into soft snow.
After a week exploring the most remote corners of the Norwegian fjords, today we arrived in the city of Tromsø, gateway to the Arctic, and we were welcomed by full summer weather —apparently the first warm day of the year—while the surrounding mountains were still completely covered in snow. We set off early and part of the group visited a museum to learn about the history of cod (tasting included!), an important part of life in this region for many centuries. Others went to a dog kennel (because petting huskies is always a great choice) and learned firsthand about the Finnmarksløpet, the most important dog sled race in Europe. Later, we all met at the Polar Museum which holds a rich collection of items from polar expeditions that passed through this city. In those days, anyone heading to or returning from Svalbard stopped here. To make the most of this summer-like day, the galley team surprised us with homemade burgers, which we enjoyed under the sun on the outside decks while sailing through the last fjords before heading out to open sea. And as a little preview of what lies ahead, puffins and humpback whales came to greet us. Svalbard, here we come!
Another action-packed and unforgettable day unfolded in the wild western reaches of the Galápagos Islands. We began with a gentle morning stretch, followed by an early hike along Urbina Bay — a surreal landscape born from the uplift of the seafloor. Towering shield volcanoes loomed around us, creating a dramatic backdrop. Golden land iguanas basked in the morning sun, while Darwin’s finches, mockingbirds, and vibrant yellow warblers flitted through the dry brush, offering glimpses of the archipelago’s famous evolutionary story.
Our young explorers took to the helm this morning, learning to drive Zodiacs with confidence and a healthy dose of laughter. On board, we delved into the fascinating human history of the archipelago, unravelling stories of pirates, pioneers, and scientists who once roamed these shores. After a scrumptious Ecuadorian lunch, our afternoon was brimming with adventure: kayaking through the impressive geology and calm waters of Tagus Cove and snorkeling among unique sea life. The real stars of the afternoon? The lightning-fast, tuxedoed Galápagos penguins, zipping around us in the water, leaving us in awe of their agility.As the day ended, half of our group hiked the trail above Tagus Cove, while others enjoyed a peaceful panga ride around Darwin Volcano.
We have reached the western side of the archipelago. As we navigated to our first destination, a huge pod of common dolphins crossed our path and gave us an amazing show of speed and agility. We celebrated our crossing of the Equator aboard National Geographic Delfina and then anchored at Punta Vicente Roca. Here we went out for a Zodiac ride along the cliffs of Isabela in search of wildlife. Some of the highlights of this outing were Galapagos penguins, flightless cormorants, and sea turtles. In the afternoon we visited Fernandina Island, the youngest of all. Here we enjoyed a walk near the nesting site of the famous marine iguanas. We witnessed their adaptations to the harsh environment of the basaltic new islands of the Galapagos. The day ended with a wine tasting event on the top deck as we enjoyed the sunset.
