Today was the first time our expedition on National Geographic Sea Lion was able to visit and explore the face of a tidewater glacier. Tracy Arm, a fjord, was filled with large chunks of recently calved ice in a variety of shapes and sizes. Under the bright, yellow sunlight, our eyes were dazzled with exciting images in every direction. Fresh water cascaded down the side of the fjord walls, carving out the granite and feeding the mosses and plants. Mountain goats grazed together in the green carpet. It was a to take in, and an overwhelming fortune to find so much beauty surrounding us. In the afternoon, we continued adventuring in William’s Cove. Our spirits were incredibly high, our bodies full of energy to enjoy our last afternoon together to the fullest. Some kayaked, others on stand-up paddleboards, and many went on extraordinary forest hikes. Our last day of this expedition was easily also one of our finest.
9/9/2023
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National Geographic Quest
Ushk Bay
Morning fog swallowed the Southeast Alaskan wilderness. As we cruised into Ushk Bay, anticipation seized the vessel. This morning’s hikes and Zodiac cruises were to be our final operations of the trip; every last one of us was eager to be ensconced in the wonders of the Tongass once again. Following a delicious breakfast — prepared by head chef Paul Cotta and his dedicated team — we set out for shore. Through a light rain we cruised on Zodiacs toward our landing, scattering bald eagles and common mergansers that had congregated along the shore. Ushk Bay’s annual salmon run was nearing its conclusion —and we could smell it. The shoreline was littered with rotting carcasses of pink and chum salmon, many of which were picked apart by corvids, gulls, and bears. Whether or not any of these individuals survived long enough to spawn is a mystery, but there is one certainty amidst this carnage — their sacrifice is not in vain. Their carcasses will enrich this place, injecting the forest with nutrients from the sea. Our last afternoon was spent cruising toward our anchorage near Sitka. The final day of a Lindblad Expeditions cruise is always a hard day. We have all forged new bonds in the fires of wilderness. Every one of us has found ourselves challenged and rewarded, humbled and humored, inspired and inspirational throughout this week. Our new bonds will, thanks to modern technology, be preserved in photographs and videos. Many will be carried on through photos and emails, but this group will never be reconstituted. Though it’s hard to say goodbye, the impermanence of this troupe makes the experience all the more poignant. These adventurers will surely be missed.
