At 6-years-old, Brooke knew she wanted to be an Expedition Photographer. So much so, she insisted her mother sign her up for drawing classes - just in case her camera broke in-the-field. Ever since, her love for storytelling has inspired her to pursu...
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Back to Daajing Giids! After an incredible day in SGang Gwaay visiting an ancestral village with still-standing historic totem poles, our Haida hosts thought it appropriate to bring us to Old Massett – and what a joy it was! This remarkable township is home to two master carvers responsible for sharing their culture far and wide. Jim Hart showed us his home studio where we got to meet his mother and his son. Together, Jim and his son shared the stories of the three totem poles outside of their home, each with a unique story regarding close family members. Another master carver some 5 minutes down the road, Christian White, beckoned us into his carving shed where he and his apprentices were actively shaping a canoe out of red cedar. Christian and Jim honor their ancestors’ legacies by training young Haida as carvers, each having several apprentices. In both workshops, the smell of newly carved cedar brought a sense of purpose and hard work; wood shavings danced in the air like the Haida dancers would just after lunch today. It was another wonderful day of sharing, dancing, singing, and laughing.
Early this morning, National Geographic Sea Lion set her anchor off Anthony Island, in the southwest corner of Haida Gwaii. It is the location of a UNESCO World Heritage Site, the old Haida village of SGang Gwaay. The village is also called Ninstints by Europeans, a corruption of the name of the chief of the village, Nan stins (“He who is two”). The Haida name for the village is Squa’ngwa-l Inaga’l, or “Red Cod Island Town”. Sgang Gwaay is considered the most secluded and protected of all old Haida villages. What brings both Indigenous and non-native travelers to this remote location, are the mortuary poles in situ. A world-famous location, these mortuary poles stand exactly where they were raised in the early 1800’s. Our shipmates were divided into groups of twelve, then ferried ashore with our three Haida hosts, Grace, Getinjud, and Barbara. These ladies walked, talked, sang, sharing their Haida culture for the entire day. From phenomenal and beautiful Haida stories of this sacred site, our group moved from shore to sea for Zodiac rides. It was an amazing day spent with Haida people in a place of great and important history to the Haida Nation.
Today was another incredible day aboard National Geographic Sea Lion . In the morning we cruised through the narrow Princess Royal and Glenville Channels, enjoying the incredible misty mountains of the glacially-carved coastline. Along the way we got glimpses at numerous seabirds, as well as the occasional harbor seal and Steller sea lion. A real highlight of the day was a fantastic presentation by National Geographic photographer Chris Rainier, who spoke about his work documenting Indigenous peoples around the world. We’re excited to be arriving at Haida Gwaii overnight, and are looking forward to the rest of our time aboard National Geographic Sea Lion .