At Sea, Ireland, 6/15/2024, National Geographic Explorer
Aboard the
National Geographic Explorer
Europe & British Isles
Blue skies and following seas made for a very pleasant passage south-westwards along the western seaboard of Ireland. We had superb views of the headlands and islands from County Donegal to County Clare, with occasional visits by small pods of common dolphins.
For as long as he can remember, Conor has always been preoccupied with the natural world, from the whales to the fungi. For most of his life he has been an islander: growing up in Cobh, Ireland and settling down in Tobermory in the Hebrides, Scotland...
Once again, the weather gods were kind as we sailed south into Kirkwall. The morning was spent discovering this Scottish Archipelago’s rich archaeological or wartime history on tours with visits to the Ring of Brodgar, Stones of Stenness, and Skara Brae or to Scapa Flow. The afternoon was either spent exploring the town of Kirkwall and its stunning cathedral or, for those more adventurous, hiking along the clifftops above thousands of seabirds in the glorious sunshine. A very full day was capped off when the Highland Park distillery came on board for a whiskey tasting.
Today, we had the privilege of experiencing an incredible variety of what the Shetland Islands has to offer – from weather and wildlife to history and music. Our navigation overnight allowed us time to explore a few surprise stops in the morning, including a visit to the Isles of Mousa and Noss. Making a landing at Mousa, we appreciated the craft of ancient builders by visiting the world’s best-preserved broch, dating back to the Iron Age. We then cruised by the cliffs of Noss to the sight of countless seabirds making light work of the impressive Shetland winds and sea conditions. Following an exciting lunch aboard National Geographic Explorer , we settled alongside the town of Lerwick for the afternoon. Here, we ventured out to Jarlshof and Sumburgh Head to hike and visit the iconic Shetland ponies and Atlantic puffins. We also explored the town to learn about local sites, stories, and crafts. To round out our day in Shetland, we were treated to a fantastic performance of fiddle music by a renowned local trio, led by Maurice Henderson.
The morning wakeup call was a little ahead of schedule this morning, but for good reason. We threw on clothes and headed to the bow, blurry-eyed and cameras in hand to marvel at a pod of killer whales swimming off the port side of the ship. Later we jumped in Zodiacs and headed to the awe-inspiring Calanais standing stones. Erected around 2900–2600 BCE on the Isle of Lewis, they form a striking cross-shaped arrangement centered around a stone circle, likely used for ritual or astronomical purposes. Made of ancient Lewisian gneiss, they are among the most significant and mysterious Neolithic sites in Scotland. In the afternoon, we sailed north toward the Shetlands under shifting skies, keeping watch for seabirds and the occasional marine mammal. Our afternoon and evening at sea included two wonderful presentations, ship made scones and cream for teatime, an engaging recap, a special Filipino buffet, and a lively show by the crew band, The Spice Boys.