Bellsund, Svalbard, 6/18/2017, National Geographic Explorer
Aboard the
National Geographic Explorer
Arctic
“Good morning! Good morning!” The expedition leader’s silky voice softly crooned over the ship’s loudspeaker. The wake-up call came earlier than we expected but it was validated by the news of a polar bear swimming just off the starboard bow. The marathon of charismatic megafauna was up and running! We saw polar bears and a walrus that would give Jabba the Hutt a run for his money in terms of bulk!
Today, we landed at the stunning glacier front of Nordbreen, nestled deep within the majestic Wijdefjorden. The day offered unforgettable experiences, both on land and at sea. Our long hikers embarked on an epic journey up to the ridge of Slettho. The ascent was rewarded with sweeping views of the rugged, dramatic landscape carved by ancient ice. From this high vantage point, we felt the raw power and isolation of the Arctic. As we stood together in five minutes of silence, taking in the vast stillness, nature answered with a breathtaking moment: the glacier calved. The thunderous sound echoed across the fjord—a powerful reminder of the ever-changing world of ice. Meanwhile, our Zodiac cruisers witnessed the same calving event from sea level. From the water, they felt the full force of the glacier’s collapse—the crash of ice, the rolling waves, and the deep, resonating boom that followed. It was a rare and visceral moment, connecting all of us more deeply with the Arctic wilderness. A day like this reminds us of why we journey to these remote places: for connection, perspective, and awe.
This morning, National Geographic Resolution explored the northeast coast of Spitsbergen Island. On approach to our landing, the ever-watchful spotters on the Bridge found a mother and cub polar bear on fast ice at a comfortable distance from our landing site. On shore, we divided into casual, moderate, and long walkers and set off into the high arctic tundra to explore the barren beauty of this high latitude. The long walkers made it to a high point with an amazing view of the ship and fjord, while the casual and moderate walkers explored the fjord-indented coastline. After lunch, we hopped into Zodiacs for an amazing cruise along the bird cliffs at Alkefjellet. The highlight was the thousands of Brunich’s guillemots nesting on dolerite ledges and covering every available space. Birds, birds everywhere! It was truly a sight to see and hear. We found an arctic fox cruising along the rocky shoreline and incredibly steep terrain, looking for anything (eggs, chicks) falling from the sky. Most of these bird cliffs have a resident fox den beneath them, as the abundance of birds helps sustain them. It was another incredible day at Latitude 79 North!
We made a morning landing at Kapp Lee with reindeers grazing around us, walruses on the beach, and numerous species of birds. We spent the afternoon going through Freemansundet with gorgeous ice and the beautiful National Geographic Resolution gently taking us to the east side of Svalbard. We observed bearded seals and walruses resting on ice. The ship kept constant company with kittiwakes and the Brunnich’s guillemots soaring around us. Two polar bears, a mother and an older cub, shared a meal on the ice. And if all that was not enough, we spent an evening at Austfonna and Brasvellsbreen, watching the longest glacial front in the Northern Hemisphere, with another polar bear walking by. This was a true Svalbard day.
