We woke to a dramatic, windswept seascape this morning. White-beaked dolphins and abundant seabirds traveled with us as we traversed open ocean waters to the Svalbard Archipelago.

Biosecurity and safety briefings were the order of the day heading into the arctic wilderness. The open sea crossing was also a perfect setting for Lars’ talk on Viking longboats.

Bjørnøya is not a place one decides to visit, rather, it’s a place we hope will invite us in. Sun and calm wind welcomed our arrival, and our expedition team prepared for a Zodiac cruise under the island’s stunning bird cliffs. Bjørnøya had other plans!  As conditions rapidly changed, the Zodiacs were secured and we enjoyed a still stunning and much drier ship cruise, with fulmars so numerous they could even be seen on the ships RADAR!