Cascade Creek & Baird Glacier, 7/12/2021, National Geographic Sea Lion
Aboard the
National Geographic Sea Lion
Alaska
Today we made our first expedition landing and visited Cascade Creek. The creek was flowing prodigiously, roaring loudly, and producing a lot of mist. Hikes differed in strenuousness and length, and a couple of groups even did some bushwhacking in the rainforest. The National Geographic Sea Lion then sailed down toward Baird Glacier and Scenic Cove where some of us hiked on the outwash plain in a field of blooming Nookta lupine while others took advantage of the opportunity to kayak and paddleboard.
I like to remind people that there are very few big surprises left in life, but if you are out in nature, with an open mind and a lot of time, you never know what you will find.
The fastidious crew of National Geographic Sea Lion tied off their dock lines in beautiful Haines, Alaska, at 0700. Surrounded by snowcapped peaks, Haines offered a postcard-perfect welcome. Guests had their pick of daily adventures, from scenic bike tours to immersive hikes into the surrounding wilderness. Eager to make the most of the day, we fueled up with breakfast and set off for Mount Riley by 0800. The 5.6-mile out-and-back trail challenged us with a 1,500-foot elevation gain, but each step brought greater reward. Along the way, we spotted Devil’s Matchstick lichen—an iconic burst of black atop slender stalks, resembling burnt match sticks. As we climbed higher, breathtaking views of the Chilkat Mountains and Lynn Canal revealed themselves. At the summit, we paused to take in the sweeping vistas, humbled by the scale and silence of Alaska’s wild spaces. It was a moment of shared awe and camaraderie, the kind that forges lasting connections. Afterward, returning to the charming town of Haines felt like re-entering a quiet storybook. This blend of rugged adventure and small-town warmth made the day truly extraordinary.
What A Day! And not only because it was Mother’s Day. Well before breakfast, under cloudless skies and a rising sun, we encountered a pod of three killer whales: a male, mother, and calf. They were well separated, but the male calmly swam near National Geographic Sea Lion , offering excellent photo ops for all of us. A couple of sea otters appeared and received equal photo time. We landed on George Island for hikes and kayaking as the day continued to amaze us all. Hikes were up-and-down through a forest of hemlocks and spruce, substantially different from yesterday’s hikes at Lake Eva, both from a biological standpoint and because of the rusting WWII canon left in place at the hike’s terminus. On the water, kayakers enjoyed calm conditions to explore the kelp canopy and other areas. During lunch we transited to the Inian Islands for Zodiac cruising. Again, with clear, sunny skies and calm waters, we viewed several sea lion haulouts, a handful of sea otters, numerous eagles, and stunning scenery. Several of us were given the chance to taste and rate the two most common surface kelps (it was a tie). The evening concluded with a vivid sunset and huge rising moon.
It was a gorgeous first day of operations in Southeast Alaska, beginning with plenty of hikes at Lake Eva. We arrived at the beach during a low tide, with barnacles and mussels in full view. We continued into the forest where a variety of singing birds awaited us. In the company of red squirrels and river otters, we hiked through gentle rain, and by the time we had reached the beach again, the tide had risen high on the shore to greet us. Back aboard, we gathered in the lounge for our first two presentations, one on photography and the other on salmonid species. Naturalists on the bridge spotted humpback whales in Chatham Strait, and we spent roughly half an hour cruising alongside three of the animals.
