We spent the day near the northern end of Chichagof Island, where Inside Passage waters meet the Gulf of Alaska. We visited Elfin Cove, a tiny year-round community perched on the rocky fringes of a cozy little harbor. Later we boarded Zodiacs to look for marine life in the rich and productive waters nearby, and we found sea otters, sea lions, humpback whales and seabirds.