SGang Gwaay, 9/10/2019, National Geographic Sea Bird
Aboard the
National Geographic Sea Bird
Alaska
We spent an incredible day exploring the area of SGang Gwaay in the Gwaii Haanas National Park Reserve, National Marine Conservation Reserve, and Haida Heritage Site. It was a day that many have looked forward to for most of the expedition, and we were excited to explore this area and learn from the Haida watchmen who care for this special place. Groups split up throughout the day to visit important sites both on land and on the water.
Gemina Garland-Lewis is a professional documentary photographer based in Baja California Sur, Mexico, with experience in over 30 countries across seven continents. Her photography explores the myriad connections between humans, animals, and their sha...
Today, National Geographic Sea Bird sailed through Misty Fjords National Monument, an incredible wilderness with spectacular cliffs and deep glacial fjords. Mid-morning, we passed by New Eddystone Rock, a volcanic pillar of basalt that juts out of the ocean like a jagged shark tooth. After a quick sighting of Dall’s porpoises, we reached Owl Pass, a narrow gap with a striking cliff rising straight from the ocean that has a large cutout which some say resembles an owl. After boarding Zodiacs, we had an incredible cruise through Owl Pass into Punchbowl Cove. Surrounded by huge mountains on all sides, we got some great views of Barrow’s goldeneye, harlequin ducks, and common mergansers. At the end of the bay, a dozen harbor seals masqueraded as pieces of driftwood, and we even got some quick glimpses of a river otter! We’re excited to cruise up towards Petersburg overnight and are looking forward to the rest of our time aboard National Geographic Sea Bird.
After an evening cruising from SG̱ang Gwaay, National Geographic Sea Bird made one last stop this morning in Daajing Giids to drop off our cultural interpreters, DeeDee Crosby and Grace Garvie. At dock, we had two unique opportunities. The first, our daily morning stretch class had the opportunity to meet on land, and second, we welcomed the incredible artisan, Aay Aay, aboard. We were familiar with Aay Aay, who we had met two days prior as an interpreter at the Haida Heritage Center. His specialty is a revival of traditional Haida weaving. During Aay Aay’s time on board, he shared with us his personal story about discovering and mastering his art with spruce root, cedar, and wool weaving. He taught us how to hand spin the warp threads that would be the beginnings of a wool piece. After an artistic morning, we embarked on our journey across Hecate Strait to reach our next destination along our expedition, Alaska. This evening, I write as we make our way into Dixon Entrance preparing to wake up to the scenery of the famed Misty Fjords in the morning.
Today was filled with incredible experiences. SGang Gwaay is a strongly spiritual land full of important history and culture of the Haida people. The powerful story that unfolded on the island long ago is present on the shores and in the forest of SGang Gwaay. We were able to take a Zodiac cruise to view wildlife. Humpback whales blew spouts in the distance and bald eagles perched in the trees on the horizon. A highlight of our day was when the Haida watchmen led our group ashore to explain the mortuary poles and village. We are forever grateful to them for sharing this glimpse of their culture with us. It was a truly special day.
