At Sea

After two incredible days at Tristan Da Cunha and Nightingale Islands MS Endeavour is underway again, heading ever south, our next destination, South Georgia. Days at sea are great for reflecting on where we have been and what we have seen. Tristan, aptly named “The World’s Most Remote Island”, sits just about halfway in between Africa and South America. For years it was virtually untouched by the outside world, most islanders only experiencing it through the ships that occasionally passed by the island. During World War II, the British government began to take interest in the island, setting up a radio station there. After the war ended, a British Administrator was sent to the island, and a fishing industry was set up as an economic base.

The waters surrounding Tristan are full of spiny lobsters, called “crayfish” by the islanders. Since its inception it has grown to be a huge worldwide business, run by a British firm with offices in South Africa. Most importantly, there is a superb fisheries management program set up on the island, headed by Jimmy Glass. Only the islanders are allowed to fish around the island of Tristan, the other outside boats are limited to the 3 other islands, Gough, Nightingale, and Inaccessible, which make up the Tristan Group. Since 1996, the gear used on the boats has been restricted, allowing 15 traps and 25 ring sets for a big boat, and 10 traps and 20 hoop nets for a small boat. Nothing is left in the water overnight, as a matter of fact all must be done fishing by 2:30 in the afternoon. The size of the lobster is restricted to 3 inches as the minimum carapace, and all egg bearing females have their tails punched for identification and are thrown back.

One might think that all these restrictions would hinder the catch size, but it seems to have done just the opposite. In 1996 the islanders fished for 72 days and caught 89 tons. In 2001-2002, they fished for just 19 days and caught 128 tons, using much less gear. All the lobster caught are taken onboard the factory ships, and then frozen for transport back to South Africa, where they are then shipped around the world. However, this year they will be experimenting with something different, and will have a live tank for shipment, as well as the regularly frozen.

Onboard Endeavour we were lucky enough to be able to enjoy these tasty creatures, as our Hotel Manager and Head Chef acquired a substantial amount on shore, and created the ultimate lobster buffet for us all.