Christmas Eve in Antarctica

A few days ago we experienced the midsummer solstice under clear blue skies. Since we are just north of the Antarctic Circle, the sun dropped behind the horizon for only a few hours. Today is Christmas eve. Everyone expects a “white Christmas” and today we experienced the real flavor of Antarctica with snow and ice.

Upon landing at the beach at Cuverville Island, we climbed a high snow wall along the beach where we usually walk ashore; the island was totally snow covered. For those not into a “snow hike,” kayaking was another option to explore the icy waters.

As the morning progressed, an icy cold wind picked up and snow started to fall. Everyone had a chance to experience how the early Antarctic explorers faced the cold environment as they struggled to reach their goals. However, after our more comfortable morning, we came back to a temptingly warm M.S. Endeavour, with a hot shower and later, a hearty lunch. Yes, this is definitely a contrast and a nice way to experience this sometimes very hostile continent!

During the afternoon, we cruised in the M.S. Endeavour through deep fjords and past hanging glaciers up on the cliff faces, seeing icebergs many times larger than the ship. No camera in the world can capture this scenery. It has to be experienced! Some minke whales and a pod of orcas (killer whales) were sighted between all the penguins.

The highlight for the afternoon was our navigation through the Lemaire Channel. It was founded by the famous French explorer Charcot. This is another spot which cannot be captured with a camera.

As we came out through the channel, we immediately encountered fast ice, but Captain Leif Skog was able to find a path towards Pleneau Island. Then, before our Christmas Eve dinner, everyone had another opportunity for a “snow hike” or a Zodiac cruise among huge icebergs, ranging in color from white to gray to pure blue. It was an endless encounter of different shapes, and every berg is a unique sculpture on its own. As we approached the island, we were treated to the sight of all three species of brushtailed penguins standing together – a very rare sighting, indeed! What a way to end another beautiful day in Antarctica! It has been a truly “white Christmas.”

Merry Christmas.