Aitcho Island, Antarctica

Shortly before 7:30 a.m., at 61º 30.32 south latitude, Matt’s voice came across the P.A. urging us to come on deck as we were amongst a large group of fin whales. Grabbing cameras and binoculars, we streamed outside to find tall, bushy blows near and far. The more we looked, the more we saw – more in a single area than any of us had ever witnessed. Our estimates were of fifty whales, perhaps more! Accompanied by Antarctic fur seals, the whales were feeding near the surface on krill that were so densely packed that they showed up on our depth finder. Wandering albatrosses and other sea birds flew close by Endeavour’s bow, and penguins darted through the water, likely also feasting on the krill.

Our first iceberg, a huge tabular berg, appeared by 9:00 a.m. During the morning, as we made our way to the South Shetland Islands, our presentation series continued with Jason Kelley’s “Plate tectonics, the Antarctic Peninsula and Glacial Ice.” Matt also prepared us for going ashore with a briefing about the “Visitors Guidelines to Antarctica” and a Zodiac orientation.

In between the programs we had another whale extravaganza. A small group of humpbacks appeared, and we were treated to a display of breeching and pectoral flipper flapping. Although the whales were trying to lure us back north, we eventually returned to our course towards Antarctica.

The Aitcho Island group came into view during lunch. Pronounced “H.O.,” the islands were named after the British Admiralty Hydrograhic Office. Icebergs abounded. The water periodically boiled with porpoising penguins on their way between feeding forays and their nesting colonies. The chicks are growing and very hungry.

Our first landing was amazing. Breeding colonies of chinstrap and gentoo penguins were everywhere. Piles of molting southern elephant seals dotted the beaches. We also spotted a few Antarctic fur seals, southern giant petrels, kelp gulls and some spectacular scenery.

Heading back to the ship, our Zodiacs took a detour to an iceberg with a resting leopard seal. Though they have a reputation as fierce predators, this animal posed patiently for our photographs, as you can see.