Baily Head, Deception Island
”Civilization exists by geologic consent, subject to change without notice”
–Will Durant
Our day would begin at Deception Island, named for the large sheltered bay that is hidden from view in bad weather or when fog drifts across the narrow mouth called Neptune’s Bellows. The Bellows is the entrance into a large caldera that was formed when the crater that was once at the top of a large conical mountain protruding from the sea erupted in a last gasp of volcanic fury. Once the magma chamber emptied, the sea water poured into the void, perhaps causing a great explosion of steam, ice, and rock.
The morning would be spent along the outer edge of this still active but ageing volcanic neck. Our Expedition leader, Matt Drennan, checked out the landing at Baily Head. This can be a very tricky place to land guests due to the incessant ocean surge that pummels the beach, but today the swell was small and predictable. The prize for getting ashore was a huge amphitheater of volcanic rock with tens of thousands of chinstrap penguins ending their summer long festival of nest building, mating, egg laying and chick rearing. The chicks, now close to adult size, were crèched up in large groups; the parents out to sea collecting the last few gullets of krill for the rotund offspring which will soon fight for themselves in the great Southern Ocean. The sounds, sights, odors and tactility of the place were overwhelming. We enjoyed the added benefit of low wind and patchy blue sky.
After reluctantly returning to the ship we made our way through the Bellows and on to Whaler’s Bay where the only opportunity to swim in the Antarctic was had by many who enjoyed the seeping warmth of water that has been heated by the last remaining volcanism that Deception Island has to offer.
”Civilization exists by geologic consent, subject to change without notice”
–Will Durant
Our day would begin at Deception Island, named for the large sheltered bay that is hidden from view in bad weather or when fog drifts across the narrow mouth called Neptune’s Bellows. The Bellows is the entrance into a large caldera that was formed when the crater that was once at the top of a large conical mountain protruding from the sea erupted in a last gasp of volcanic fury. Once the magma chamber emptied, the sea water poured into the void, perhaps causing a great explosion of steam, ice, and rock.
The morning would be spent along the outer edge of this still active but ageing volcanic neck. Our Expedition leader, Matt Drennan, checked out the landing at Baily Head. This can be a very tricky place to land guests due to the incessant ocean surge that pummels the beach, but today the swell was small and predictable. The prize for getting ashore was a huge amphitheater of volcanic rock with tens of thousands of chinstrap penguins ending their summer long festival of nest building, mating, egg laying and chick rearing. The chicks, now close to adult size, were crèched up in large groups; the parents out to sea collecting the last few gullets of krill for the rotund offspring which will soon fight for themselves in the great Southern Ocean. The sounds, sights, odors and tactility of the place were overwhelming. We enjoyed the added benefit of low wind and patchy blue sky.
After reluctantly returning to the ship we made our way through the Bellows and on to Whaler’s Bay where the only opportunity to swim in the Antarctic was had by many who enjoyed the seeping warmth of water that has been heated by the last remaining volcanism that Deception Island has to offer.
