Ile d’Aix and La Rochelle
This morning we anchored off the Ile d’Aix, a romantic island which we had to ourselves for a morning of exploration. A dry landing by Zodiac was followed by a gentle walk in warm spring sunshine though the impressive Vauban ramparts, one of several sets of military defenses built on the island to defend the approaches to La Rochelle from the attentions of the British navy.
The island is celebrated in French history as Napoleon’s last place of residence on French soil. From here he departed on board the Bellérophon into exile on St. Helena after his final defeat at Waterloo in 1815. There is a splendidly evocative Napoleon Museum, and an equally evocative monument in the local church to the noyadesor mass drowning of Catholic clergy that took place during the French Revolution at the height of the Terror.
During lunch on board we repositioned to La Pallice, the outport for La Rochelle. Like Bordeaux, La Rochelle grew rich from Atlantic trade in the eighteenth century. By contrast, its narrow streets have celebrated arcades. Following a leisurely but comprehensive walking tour of the town center, we enjoyed free time for personal exploration, some of us enjoying home-made ice-cream in the renowned Café de la Paix, where Georges Simenon (author of the Maigret novels) worked over his plots over small cups of strong coffee.
Guests interested in the Huguenots sought out a small museum in the Protestant church (in France these are called temples). La Rochelle was the heart of French Protestantism, known as the French Geneva, prior to the Revocation of the Edict of Nantes. The Protestant King Henry IV, who changed his religion in his rise to power (famously describing Paris as “worth a mass”) remains a conspicuous hero in the town. His colorful statue, incorporated in the charming Town Hall, was clearly visible from the café terraces where he could be toasted with evening cocktails.
This morning we anchored off the Ile d’Aix, a romantic island which we had to ourselves for a morning of exploration. A dry landing by Zodiac was followed by a gentle walk in warm spring sunshine though the impressive Vauban ramparts, one of several sets of military defenses built on the island to defend the approaches to La Rochelle from the attentions of the British navy.
The island is celebrated in French history as Napoleon’s last place of residence on French soil. From here he departed on board the Bellérophon into exile on St. Helena after his final defeat at Waterloo in 1815. There is a splendidly evocative Napoleon Museum, and an equally evocative monument in the local church to the noyadesor mass drowning of Catholic clergy that took place during the French Revolution at the height of the Terror.
During lunch on board we repositioned to La Pallice, the outport for La Rochelle. Like Bordeaux, La Rochelle grew rich from Atlantic trade in the eighteenth century. By contrast, its narrow streets have celebrated arcades. Following a leisurely but comprehensive walking tour of the town center, we enjoyed free time for personal exploration, some of us enjoying home-made ice-cream in the renowned Café de la Paix, where Georges Simenon (author of the Maigret novels) worked over his plots over small cups of strong coffee.
Guests interested in the Huguenots sought out a small museum in the Protestant church (in France these are called temples). La Rochelle was the heart of French Protestantism, known as the French Geneva, prior to the Revocation of the Edict of Nantes. The Protestant King Henry IV, who changed his religion in his rise to power (famously describing Paris as “worth a mass”) remains a conspicuous hero in the town. His colorful statue, incorporated in the charming Town Hall, was clearly visible from the café terraces where he could be toasted with evening cocktails.
