After a couple of days of cold rain and overcast skies -– all too typical, we are told, for central Norway in summer – we are back to the sunhine that has blessed so much of this voyage. This morning after breakfast we visited Edoya, a tiny island community linked by ferry with the mainland. On the old farm by the landing we watched the haybaling, enjoying the scents of air freshened by overnight showers, and of cattle bailed up for morning milking. This afternoon we visited Grip, a smaller and more isolated island, set among sea-washed skerries. Beyond the waterfront lies a village of traditional wooden fishermens’ houses, clustered about a 14th century stave church. A community with a proud history, Grip has both wooed the sea for a living and fought it for survival. Several times in the 18th and 19th centuries storms washed away both its houses and its hopes. Today Grip lives on, still a fishing community, still subject to the whims of its unruly neighbour, but now a holiday township as well. Freshly-painted and forward-looking, it caters for summer residents and day-visitors from Kristiansund, a half-hour ferry-ride away. Our picture shows Endeavour’s Zodiacs lined up in the harbour, with a backdrop of fishing trawlers, pleasure cruises and waterfront warehouses.